Travelfish #399: Rethinking tourism bubbles

Monday is reinvent the Thai tourism industry day.

Aug 24, 2020

Hi everyone,

So this week I’m all about re–shaping the entire tourism industry in Thailand. What better thing to do on a Monday? More on this down the page a bit.

As mentioned last week, we hit our crowdfunding target last week. Thank you! The first two stories are on my desk and they’re both fab. I can’t wait to get them online. The third one is underway at the moment. As I’ve written before, these features are 100% funded by Travelfish supporters, so once again, thank you!

Covid19 got you down? Think about food instead. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

The crowdfunding has another month or so to run, so if you’ve loose change, please keep it in mind. You can follow our progress here.

Last week on pay to read Couchfish, I headed back into southern Laos, with two days in Savannakhet, then Pakse, getting waylaid, and a special post celebrating one hundred posts on Couchfish (free to read). Where did those one hundred days go?

On free to read Couchfish, I covered Chau Doc in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta and then had a wrap on travellers behaving badly—we’ve all been there right?

As always, the photos in this newsletter are from last week on Couchfish.

Don’t forget, if you are a Travelfish member, the full Couchfish newsletter is free—just email me your member name and I’ll add you to the list.

On a boat south of Chau Doc, Vietnam. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Over on Thai Island Times, David had a moving post on remembering Wally Sanger—if you ever found yourself on Thailand’s Ko Kradan, chances are you crossed paths. David also got out a comprehensive coastal news wrap.

Slightly off piste, but Chris has a wrap on diving the Yonaguni Monument in Japan. Sounds cold to me.

Cheers and again thank you for all your support

Stuart

Support Travelfish!

If you'd like to chip in (if you haven’t already) for using the site, we'd love you to sign up for a year-long subscription for just A$35. See more here.

This is your personal invitation

You’d need to have been living under a stone for the last few months to have missed talk of travel bubbles. They come and go—they’re bubbles afterall.

Cooking up an idea here. Penang. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Australia and New Zealand were going to have one, then it drifted off. Indonesia was talking about one for Bali, then that deflated. Vietnam’s likewise popped. Thailand is the latest to have a go with a campaign titled “Safe and Sealed”—the seal will keep the hot air in I guess.

Broad strokes, these Bangkok Post and Reuters stories outline the campaign as:

Swab tests before departure, upon arrival, after quarantine, and before leaving Thailand
A stay of at least 30 days
The first 14–days in quarantine. After quarantine you can travel to “other areas”
Guests are welcome within two criteria
a) Nations within a six hour flight of Thailand
b) From countries who don’t impose travel restrictions on their citizens
Need to stay at a range of government selected Alternative State Quarantine (ASQ) hotels

Still reading?

I’m not sure they were talking about the Thai tourism industry. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

A few thoughts on this:

Swab tests: Yup agree 100%.
30 day stay: Sounds good.
14 day quarantine: Yes.
a) The six hour limit is a big caveat. A six hour flight radius around Bangkok takes in (very roughly) the following:
- Muscat (though not Doha)
- Islamabad
- Beijing
- Fukuoka (though not Tokyo)
- Southeast and South Asia
b) Indonesia, I’ve read, restricts its citizens from leaving. Australia has taken a page out of Pyongyang’s playbook (unless you have a fancy boat), so forget about them. As for other countries, I don’t know. The six hour limit (which seems arbitrary) could be to limit inbounds to “Greater Asia”, though I could be wrong.
You need to stay at an ASQ hotel. This is the clanger. While the Bangkok Post doesn’t list the ASQ hotels, a friend in Phuket told me Trisara and Sri Panwa are on the list. Trisara charges 550,000 baht for a 14-day stay and I was told Sri Panwa is around the same. That is around US$17,500—so over $1,000 a night. I’ve been told there are “cheaper” ASQ hotels in Bangkok at around the 30,000 baht mark. ASQ also includes two Covid19 tests and three meals a day—bargain.

Without the full list of properties, it is hard to say for sure how high–end this programme is. At this stage though, I’d say packing fancy–pants would be prudent.

Now I don’t want to come across all negative, but this concept is dead on arrival.

Don’t worry, he’s not dead—the yellow phone bit him. Ko Samui. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Yes, I’m sure there’s a niche market who are willing to put down over $US1,000 a night to sit in their hotel room for two weeks. In Phuket, not being allowed outside would be a positive for some I guess. I would say though that this market is at the niche end of niche.

It is the wrong niche.

Then there is the elephant in the room—travel insurance. Travel insurance that covers Covid19 doesn’t not exist, but it can be tricky to find. I’ve seen no discussion in media reports on this. In some countries it is illegal to sell a package without adequate travel insurance. Does adequate means “includes Covid19”? This could be another challenge. Are people willing to pay US$17,500 for two weeks restrained in a hotel room often self–insured? Who knows.

Depending on the country of departure, people may need a 14-day quarantine when they get home as well. This doesn’t seem to be getting many column inches either, but I guess it is the home country’s problem. Out of sight, out of mind and all that.

Quarantine me here please. Don Koh, Laos. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Lastly, the historic average stay on both Phuket and Samui is under 5 days (PDF). It has been like that for decades and shows no signs of budging. Yes, of course some people hit Phuket for 16 days—or 16 years—but government statistics say most stay under a week. The same goes for Samui. Know different, please hit me up with official stats to back it up please.

So, to boil it down, the concept is as follows. Find high–spending travellers from Greater Asia, who are into a month or longer stay in Thailand. Must be comfortable with the trip bookended by 14–day quarantines. Multiple Covid19 swab tests? No problem. Travel insurance? Mai pen rai. Also, must be into Phuket.

At any scale whatsoever? Good. Luck. With. That.

I have an alternative concept: Budget travellers

Protecting locals are priority numero uno

First off, I agree with some of the above. A mandatory 14-day quarantine, and the swab tests, are essential. The number one priority in re–introducing inbound tourism is protecting local people.

Parasitical inbound companies (whose name might rhyme with Louie) should wear this cost. I’m shocked to learn they’re keen on offsetting it to, well, anybody else. Shocked I say.

Thailand needs to rethink the market

Save the punters who never leave, budget travellers stay longer than anyone else. Yes they spend far less per day, but they stay far longer and travel far further. Destinations often flog budget travellers, equating high spend with high quality.

Travelfish readers know this is complete rubbish. Spending more does not make you a better traveller—or guest. Bringing an expensive bottle of wine to dinner doesn’t make you a better person than the one who brought a six–pack.

Ok, maybe not all budget travellers are the best. Ko Pha Ngan Full Moon Party. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

There is no relationship whatsoever between the “quality” of a tourist and what they spend. The quality is what they bring to a place, the non–monetary exchanges during the trip, and what they take home.

What do I mean by “non–monetary exchanges”? I mean the societal and cultural interchange and learning. The learning about each others’ cultures and ways of life. These are intangible in a monetary sense, but nevertheless priceless. This is the stuff that stays with you for a lifetime. This is, by far, the biggest long–term pay–off in travel.

So no, I’m not talking about the size of their wallet. I will say though, the money from budget travellers more often than not ends up in the hands of small business. That matters.

If the only way a hotel in Thailand can hit ASQ is by charging over $1k a night, then Thailand’s budget tourism scene is dead. The government needs to design standards that are achievable for affordable places. One of our most prolific writers last week spent 4,650 baht on eight nights across Thailand’s northeast. Did he have to do a Covid19 test at any stage? Nope. “All of that 4,650 baht went to locally owned lodgings”, says David.

Looking for cheap digs? Takeo, Cambodia. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Thailand needs to target the people who were, pre Covid19, already staying a month or longer. Regardless of Covid19.

Reinvent Quarantine: We’ll bring Thailand to you

Stop thinking about 14-day quarantine as “go sit in your room and watch Thai soap or drink Chang for 14 days”. Partner with, say, language schools, yoga or meditation schools, or cooking schools. I’d add pineapple carving schools, but I’d need 1,400 days to learn to carve a pineapple like a Thai—respect.

Say “Yes, you’re not going outside for 14–days, but don’t worry, we’ll bring Thailand to you”. We’ll teach you the basics of the language, or how to cook Thai food, or how to do a downward facing dog, or meditate. Who doesn’t feel like a bit of meditation could be on the money about now? All delivered at a distance and/or virtually.

Consult with local communities

First though, start with an in–depth consultation with local communities. Many may not even be keen with the idea of foreign tourists hitting their hood—and press reports back this up. So tread with care. Reassure communities over health and safety concerns. If you can’t reassure, then chances are, there is something wrong with your program. The problem is with the program, not with the local community. Go back to square one.

Eat local. Meet local. Enjoy local. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Involve local communities in the delivering of the quarantine courses. Make sure the money is flowing, from the get–go, into these communities. They must be involved in the upside.

Look at a map

If/when they ok it, select quality affordable properties across those communities. Locally or family owned, under say 2,000 baht a night, and make sure they are up to scratch on the ASQ ratings. Subsidise staff training and property upgrades as required.

I’d say pick ten destinations—off the top of my head:

Bangkok (Phra Phradaeng)
Kanchanaburi
Ko Chang
Ko Pha Ngan
Krabi
Chiang Mai
Ubon Ratchathani
Mae Hong Son
Sukhothai
Trang

All the above are within a few hours by van of an airport. They all also have, at least Thai provincial standard medical care. Not Phuket standards, but, hey, less rip–offs!

Make it thematic even. Badge language classes with all, but offer other learning experiences by region. The islands could have local reef conservation education. The northeast Khmer ruins (don’t mention Preah Vihear!). The north hill tribe culture. Bangkok could be food. Whatever—just not Thai soap!

This is not lost time. It is an opportunity to understand Thailand better.

All the above could be delivered with physical distancing in mind. Many would work by video into the guest’s room—again, beats Thai soap!

No quarantine is not 14 days of this. Prachuap Khiri Khan. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Pick the properties not because they’re in bed with the TAT or have political connections. Instead because they are outstanding spots, wedded to, and employing from local communities. Choose places who believe being green isn’t painting the lobby green, but a way of life. By green I don’t mean having the right lightbulbs while otherwise being an enviro–wreck. If you have private pool villas, you are not green—just speak to the hand or shut up and stop saying otherwise.

Look forward not back

Pick these properties because they represent the potential of Thailand’s new tourism. A forward looking, sustainable, community supported undertaking. Come to my house, learn some of my language, eat with my family (after 14 days!) have a glimpse behind the curtain. See, listen, and learn about what makes Thailand so so so special.

This is the first step in forgoing mass tourism. Attract those who want to learn about the country, or who want to learn how to love it better. People who will come back again and again, rather than just “bail to the Caribbean” as one idiot UK travel agent said.

Make the effort

Once they’ve selected the properties, collaborate. Select their best customers—ask them, who are your most likely guests to go for this—who will “get it”?

Might take a while to get this all sorted out. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Draw up a list, then, get in touch, personally.

“Ok we’re re-opening the joint, and we want you through the door first. This is your personal invitation, from Thailand, and us, to you.”

Tourism needs to become a relationship.

Will this be easy? No!

The overhead in implementing the above is considerable to say the least. What is a fabulous property on Ko Chang? Ask ten people and get ten different answers. Even if you agree on the best best property, will they be into it? Will their local community be into it? Will their favourite guests be into it?

No, not easy. Tana Toraja. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Aside from the first question, I don’t know the answer to any of these questions. I’m not saying any of this would be easy. Nothing about Covid19 is easy.

Yes, these budget travellers would be subject to the same issues as the high–end. quarantine, lack of viable travel insurance and so on. Budget and sustainable tourism is the right way forward and this is the time to champion it. So pull your finger out and get onto it.

What I’m saying is Thailand needs to look Covid19 in the eye and see the silver lining of the shit sandwich.

This is an opportunity to rejig the tourism industry to something that serves both parties, rather than a beast that devours one.

One that supports local communities through means other than via low–paid, zero security, gigs changing linen.

One that prizes the environment rather than paving it over.

One that fosters understanding and cultural interchange.

The road is long. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

More than anything else, one that is smaller by a vast degree, than what existed in late 2019. Pre Covid19, the smartest thing the TAT could have said was “our goal for the next year is to halve inbounds”. They didn’t, so nature did it for them.

Then, come 2029, Thailand will still be the destination so many of us fell in love with years ago.

PS: The above holds for any country in Southeast Asia—do a search and replace and it still works.

Thank you David, Caroline and others for their feedback after taking a look at this piece early on.

Good travels

Stuart

Premium members only:

Book a round the world with roundtheworldflights.com (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get £30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2021.
Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and start designing your own round the world trip

Eleven things worth reading

An unlikely partnership

“It’s not just the money that weighed heavy on Odi’s mind. It’s the constant risks he has to take in the relentless pursuit to provide for his family.” A great read about good things being done in East Lombok. You can read more about Project Hiu here.

Anti-opium movements in the Straits Settlements $

“With opium addiction impacting the Chinese so disproportionately in the Straits Settlements, the region’s anti-opium movement was also led by the Straits Chinese (Peranakan) community. ”

Threatened by Facebook disinformation, a monk flees Cambodia $

“The dependence can be deadly. In Myanmar, military-linked Facebook accounts inflamed hatred of the Rohingya amid the ethnic cleansing of the Muslim ethnic group. Hate speech circulating on WhatsApp, which is owned by Facebook, fueled anti-Muslim mobs in India.”

Bali postpones plans to welcome international travellers in September

"However, we should be careful, [we] cannot hurry [such a plan as we] need to be well prepared. In attempting to recover tourism, Bali should not fail, because it will badly impact the image of Indonesia in the eyes of the world."

Has Thailand's King Vajiralongkorn got what it takes? $

“What was present in the father is altogether lacking in the son.” Word.

Plain of Jars

“Extrapolating from this suggests that the area immediately around the Site 1 megaliths could, potentially, contain the remains of more than 8,000 individuals.”

Cambodia’s biggest lake is running dry, taking forests and fish with it

“But things are no longer normal in the Tonle Sap area. Years of overfishing have dramatically reduced catch sizes, though it’s impossible to know exactly by how much since the Cambodian government is reluctant to release reliable figures.”

Journalist Jon Swain revisits 1970s Phnom Penh

“For the newly arrived journalist, Phnom Penh proved to be one of those cities that grabs you, and never lets you go.” The book may not have aged well, but an interesting profile nevertheless.

Something to read

Overbooked: The Exploding Business Of Travel And Tourism

Elizabeth Becker’s Overbooked is part reportage, part travelogue and part annoying—not all in equal measure thankfully—and remains a useful primer for the reader with an interest in where the global tourism train is taking us.

Photo of the week

Ok, I’ll shut up now and eat. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Thank you!

Thanks from reading the Travelfish newsletter. Please feel free to forward it to all and sundry and your feedback, as always, is much appreciated.

Travel light!

Stuart & the Travelfish team

Travelfish weekly newsletter

Discussion about this post