Travelfish #387: New home, new look + Quarantine Thai island style
New home, new look
Hi everyone,
Yes, the Travelfish newsletter has a new home—Substack. The service will remain the same as always (though I missed last week sorry), every Monday in your inbox.
It has been two weeks since the last newsletter, so I won’t go through the blow by blow of Couchfish’s travels, but I have been busy! Today I took a boat from Xieng Kok to Huay Xai and tomorrow I’m off to the Gibbon Experience. The last free to read post was about a memorable boat trip I did in Burma a few years ago. Photos from that trip are included in this newsletter. The archives are here.
Over on Thai Islands Times, David had a great piece on Ko Tarutao and his island wrap covers the slow re–opening taking place in Thailand. Give it a read and/or sign–up!
Sticking with newsletters for a moment, my mate Chris has relaunched his diving in Southeast Asia website, Divehappy, and has a regular newsletter attached. If diving is your thing, please do take a look and sign up!
Cruising up Burma’s Chindwin River. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
This week we have a feature written by Travelfish member Martin Aristia describing what it is like to be quarantined on a Thai island for three months. The hardship I tell ya!
Cheers and thanks for your support
Stuart
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Pulling through the pandemic on a southern Thai island
It is a frequent question—from locals and friends at home alike. “How do we feel about being stuck on Ko Yao Noi during this worldwide stand–by”. The answer that immediately springs to mind is a single word: “Lucky.”
Just another Ko Yao Noi sunset. Photo: Lana Willocks.
In all honesty, my partner and I don’t feel particularly stuck nor quarantined here. Ko Yao Noi is gorgeous. The locals are friendly and hospitable, and their food is spicy and delicious: what’s not to like?
Imagine a green, hilly island tucked into the centre of Thailand’s Phang Nga bay. It overlooks limestone towers and minuscule islets, making for incredible sunrises and sunsets. Add in a smooth main road that takes you all around it—a pleasure to ride. Off this road run smaller trails, leading to some of the most interesting corners. Beaches, jungle, villages and even a massive rice field—if you’re here at the right time of the year. The paddy is actually our first sight each morning—we live beside it.
There are many things we’re grateful for on Ko Yao Noi. The never–far–away inexpensive bowl of locally prepared (and fiery) curry. A friendly, albeit small, local market is also not too distant. The local food cooked by the warmest ladies—they keep us grazing all day.
We are free to roam around on our bicycles. We take the necessary precautions we all know about already of course. We ride to places local people recommend: always trust local knowledge!
Not too difficult to keep your distance from others. Photo: Lana Willocks.
Once I was looking to buy a fish to grill. One of our neighbours is Mr. Chood. He was a police officer, but now has a small chicken farm beside our bungalow. He gave me directions to a fishing village on the other side of the island. Armed with his instructions—at least what I got out of our broken Thai-English chat—I took off.
It didn’t take too long to find the village. Everybody seemed a bit surprised to see a farang, but I got to work—phone in hand with Mr. Chood’s Thai written instructions. My bounty? A huge bag with all sorts of fresh fish and seafood. It turned out everyone knew our neighbour, as he’s originally from that area on the island. The feast afterwards was unforgettable.
We’ve been invited to homes, to share a piece of local life a few times. We’ve found Ko Yao Noi–ians to be among the friendliest folk in Thailand. For over two months, this island has been our temporary home and we couldn’t feel more welcome. Without signs of a regularisation of the circumstances, it seems we could be here for a while.
Did we mention the views? Photo: Lana Willocks.
One time, we went for a ride to the semi-wild, jungle filled northern tip of the island. We encountered a man with long, grey hair, working on his land by the dirt road and exchanged greetings. A few minutes later, Anukul was showing us his land and home. “Home” was a tent in the middle of a stand of tall trees, an open fire, and a few pots and pans. We chatted for hours as he shared fresh coffee from his own farm in Chiang Mai with us.
One might think that a typical Thai island would have been severely affected tourism-wise by Covid19. Many islands have been. This is only partly true for Ko Yao Noi however—this is not your typical Thai island. It doesn’t rely 100% on tourism: fishing and rubber are mainstays for the Muslim majority economy. That’s not to say they and the small expat community are not facing significant challenges.
Hit hardest were those who do rely on tourism. Hotel and bungalow owners, restaurants, dive and tour shops all confront an unprecedented struggle. They were already face to face with a season that had not been great — and that was before the pandemic. Now that high season has passed and the rains are falling, this season is the worst in memory — if not ever.
Watermelon? Photo: Lana Willocks.
Most workers in the tourism business returned to their home towns elsewhere in Thailand. Many who stayed had to find a new job. Our friend Lay pivoted from a receptionist at a top hotel, to an improvised baker at her own “Papa’s Bakery”. With the help of social media, she now sells delicious pastries and desserts. Shops by the local market are another outlet — buoyed by afternoon sales over Ramadan.
The effects though have also hit everyday life for all. At the peak of the pandemic, national and provincial restrictions bit. Ko Yao Noi locked down completely. A weekly supply boat was the sole connection to “outside”. Our landlord Nichapa (our own Thai aunty), had travelled to Phuket with her mother. She was accompanying her to hospital as the local one can only treat minor issues. They were stuck in Phuket for weeks before they got an OK to return. Similar stories are common.
How did lockdown affect us? Even at the peak, we could leave our bungalow and move around the island without restriction. We did notice a reduction in the availability of supplies from the mainland though. We also sensed some stress in the locals. They would worriedly update us about new measures taken by the authorities as they came into play. Restaurants open only for take-away. No new hotel or guesthouse check-ins permitted. Then the boat to Phuket stopped. Then the one to Krabi. Then, lastly, the boat to Phang Nga.
Waiting for the tourists to return. Photo: Lana Willocks.
Restrictions have started to ease, and this has helped to make life a little easier for everybody. Even if the normality we once knew remains as distant as the setting sun, there is hope and optimism.
Business owners who can afford it are renovating, eyeing next season with hope. Smiles still reign. Buffaloes continue to roam the island’s bountiful grasslands. Ko Yao Noi’s slow pace of life rolls on. I sure hope the next season brings the best for the residents.
All in all, I don’t think we could have been in a better place to see through the pandemic. We’re immensely grateful to the local community who have made us feel right at home—in theirs. If you come over one day, you might still find us around.
Story by Martin Aristia
You can follow Martin’s travels, that is if he and his partner ever leave Ko Yao Noi, via his Twitter account here.
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Ten things worth reading
Corona? No thanks, I'll have a lao lao
“While there are many varietals of lao lao, nearly all of them made in family homes, seldom is it described as smooth.” You don’t say.
A moveable feast: Missing the joys of dining out in Southeast Asia
“Before the pandemic, I never thought of how enjoyable communal loafing is.”
The Art of Travel Blogging with Tom Divers, Vietnam Coracle
What is it like running arguably the best website dedicated solely to Vietnam? Tom tells it like it is.
A writer muses on travel
“As for the end of travel, this is not the first time the gates have swung shut on our wanton mobility. I doubt very much, it will be the last.” A lot to like in this piece.
The Thai guesthouse that saved a village
Really enjoyed this piece on a hidden away guesthouse in the near off-the-map town in Pilok.
An Archipelago in the Ocean of Corona – part 3
Just when I think a handle on what is happening in Bali re Covid19, I read something else suggesting it is still more complicated.
Everyone was 20-sumthin once
This piece by my friend Karla made me laugh, probably for all the wrong reasons, but I’m very glad there was no social media when I was kicking around the region in my 20s!
Yes, good wifi and responsible tourism can coexist
Good businesses, doing the right thing, are struggling to survive across the region. Here is just one example. Good spot to stay too!
Thailand’s travel industry readies for relaunch $
“And hospital-quality levels of hygiene and cleanliness, and minimised but bespoke human contact, will become not just a feature but an integral part of the product, especially at the high end.”
Hoi An in the 90s
Plenty has changed, but plenty has stayed the same too.
Something to read
King Norodom’s Head
If you have any affection for the growing city of Phnom Penh—and nostalgia for its disappearing past—you’ll love King Norodom’s Head: Phnom Penh Sights Beyond the Guidebooks.
Photo of the week
Biding time on the Chindwin. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
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Travel light!