Travelfish newsletter Issue 318 : Tha Ton + Jimbaran + West coast Thai Islands + Thai Shinkansen
Hi all,
This week on the site we have an update of our coverage of Northern Thailand's Tha Ton, the launching point for the famed Kok River trip. South of the equator, we’ve updated Jimbaran in Bali. Famous for its seafood barbecues, it is also an attractive beach and is conveniently close to Bali’s airport, which given the continuing appalling Bali traffic, earns it an extra gold star.
Sticking with the beach theme, we have also updated our three weeks on Thailand’s northern Andaman coast itinerary—get that annual leave form in today!
Sticking with Bali for a moment, in the middle of a few days away with friends at Tulamben on the north coast, we were just about shaken out of bed by a 6.4 quake, which had its epicentre on the north coast of neighbouring Lombok. We rushed out to check on the Agung volcano (which was directly behind our resort), but it was just steaming away—thankfully no fire and brimstone. Lombok though, was not so lucky. This morning the death toll was edging towards 20 and hundreds of trekkers were stranded on Rinjani volcano after landslides disturbed some of the trekking routes.
On the topic of Tulamben, it is worth noting that despite Agung still murmuring away, the town is totally open for business. Our keen diving friends commented that the sites were busy, but still made for some excellent diving.
In books, Sam takes a look at A Tiger in Eden, a rollicking tale told in the authentic voice of an Irish Loyalist on the lam set in Thailand in 1996.
Good travels
Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish crew
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Soapbox
Thailand’s white elephant
According to Wikipedia, the term "white elephant", meaning an expensive burden that fails to meet expectations, was popularised following P.T. Barnum’s experience with an elephant named Toung Taloung that he billed as the “Sacred White Elephant of Burma”. After much effort and great expense, Barnum finally acquired the animal from the King of Siam only to discover that his “white elephant” was actually dirty grey with a few pink spots.
Recent news coverage in Thailand has centred on the junta’s latest white elephant -- they are working on developing quite a stable of them -- a Shinkansen–style fast train service between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The first stage would follow the existing rail route and is planned to run from Bangkok to Phitsanulok (with six stations in between), with an estimated costing of some 276 billion baht.
A recent feasibility study by Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) found that the original estimated passenger load (30,000 passengers a day) had been exaggerated by a mere 300%, with 10,000 being a saner target. The report also noted some 50,000 passengers a day will be needed for the train to actually pay its way.
Baulking at the cost, Thai transport officials have suggested slowing down the trains and/or reducing the number of stations to save dosh, but JICA disagreed, saying slower trains or fewer stations would defeat the original purpose of the project.
We love a shiny fast train as much as the next guy, and we looovvveeeeeee Japan’s Shinkansen. And while we are strong believers in public infrastructure being a public service rather needing to be a profit centre, we can’t help but think this is a bad idea. Aside from the potential for dare we say elephant–sized graft, the service would still be slower than flying, and probably more expensive.
Surely the money could be better spent incrementally improving and expanding the existing network? Northeast Thailand could have an extension following the Mekong River, for example. James over at Nomadic Notes has an exhaustive section on the proposed possibilities and we reckon not only do some of those sound better than this shiny speeding white ele, he does appear to have put more thought into it than the junta.
While we’re on the subject of Thai trains, did you know that trains in Thailand say boon boon rather than choo choo? (And people say Twitter is a waste of time!)
Lastly, what would you suggest they call a Thai Shinkansen? Apparently the Japanese version means “New” (shin) “trunk line” (kan sen), referring to the train having its own dedicated track. We have to confess as being quite disappointed—we were hoping it meant “super electric beam from some demi-God” or something... but a super fast Thai train, what would you call it? Suggestions please.
Good travels,
Stuart
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What we’re reading
A Tiger in Eden by Chris Flynn
The Thailand of 1996 is the backdrop to Chris Flynn’s compelling 2012-published novel, A Tiger in Eden. And while it’s not the most well-rounded depiction of the kingdom we’ve come across in fiction, the story of the protagonist Billy Montgomery is so enthralling that we’re happy to put that aside and still recommend the book if you’re travelling there.
Featured
Tha Ton
Flowing out of the hills of Burma’s Shan State at Tha Ton before winding its way across Chiang Rai Province to empty into the Mekong just south of Chiang Saen, a boat trip down a scenic stretch of the Kok River between Tha Ton and Chiang Rai has long been a highlight for travellers to this part of Thailand.
You have three principal options: the daily public boat, a private charter or a package from a Chiang Rai or even Chiang Mai tour agent. The latter usually includes the boat trip, visit to the Ruam Mit elephant camp and perhaps a trek with one or two-night stays in hill-tribe villages. You can do the trip in either direction, but downstream from Tha Ton to Chiang Rai is the usual way, as travelling upstream against the often fast-flowing current can be slow and hard work.
If you do want to make a day of it—which we recommend—then you’ll have to get a few punters together and hire your own boat. Boats seat up to half a dozen foreigners and cost around 2,400 baht for the trip to Chiang Rai. Add on a couple of hundred baht tip and the boatman ought to be happy to make any stops, plus waiting time, you require. It shouldn’t be too difficult to find a few like-minded travellers in Tha Ton during high season. Alternatively, if you have a specific downriver destination in mind, you can charter for a round trip. Note also that when water levels are low boatmen may limit the number of passengers for weight reasons to four.
From Tha Ton, the first section flows through flat farmland with fine views across to the mountains to the southeast and back towards Wat Tha Ton and the Burmese border. The first major village you reach—which is connected to Tha Ton by road—is the large Lahu village of Phathai. During high season, refreshments will be available and there are usually a couple of Lahu women who sell handicrafts on the riverside. After Phathai the river becomes more picturesque, with the wooded hills of Lam Nam Kok National Park coming down to the water on both banks. The scenery is mostly pretty, but low, wooded hills; do not expect dramatic limestone gorges or Apocalypse Now-style jungle.
The stop before Ruam Mit, on the south bank, has the national park headquarters and Phasoet Hot Springs but we’d only get out here if the boat is going to wait for you. (This is a bit in the middle of nowhere!) Ruam Mit itself is a large, well-frequented village with plenty of eating options and coffee shops and if you’re not interested in the elephants there’s still a hill-tribe market to see. If you’re lucky you might see the ellies having a bath in the river.
From here, the Kok continues down to Chiang Rai, passing some karst scenery with caves and hilltop pagodas as you get closer to town. Finally, after reaching the bamboo salas of Chiang Rai Beach, you’ve arrived. The total travel time for the public boat is four hours or so downstream and five to six, depending upon current, upstream. For a private charter including several stops then count the whole day.
Sure it costs more than the bus, but this is a great way to see some of the beauty of the north without having to trek through it!
Lastly, before you jump on the boat, consider an overnight stay as Wat Tha Ton is well worth a look and Tha Ton makes for a handy base to explore the surrounds.
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News from the region
CAMBODIA I: "When we vote, we expect change"
“ 'For me, I need to be grateful,' she said, eyes welling with tears. 'They rescued me. My life was very hard under Pol Pot.' Despite her gratitude, she felt that the loss of the opposition voice in Cambodian politics was a step backwards. 'I am old,' she told us. 'I do not have modern thinking, but I want to have an opposition voice to develop and complete the country.' ”
CAMBODIA II: Cambodia re-elects its leader, a result predetermined by one
“To ensure dominance in Sunday’s general elections, for which his Cambodian People’s Party declared victory on Sunday night, Mr. Hun Sen, a former Khmer Rouge cadre who ranks as Asia’s longest-serving leader, did practically everything to stack the odds in his favor.”
CAMBODIA III: Chinese mafia taking over idyllic Cambodian beach
“But now the backpackers are being run out of town by a new wave of tourists. Last year, 120,000 Chinese visitors came to the city that only has 90,000 people in its urban centre — four times as many as the previous year. They flock here not for the sun and surf or to soak up the colourful culture, but to gamble.”
CAMBODIA IV: Deal signed for The City Gate commercial complex
Destroying the appeal of Cambodia chapter 57.
INDONESIA I: French tourist dies in Tegalalang swing accident
“It is already known that location has a number of swings owned by local residents who rented rides to tourists. 'There are about 10 swings, without any security measures,' said the official.”
INDONESIA II: After Indonesian earthquake terror, hundreds trek down from volcano
“ 'I thought I was going to die,' said John Robyn Buenavista, a 23-year-old American, who was at the summit when the quake hit. 'I was clinging to the ground. It felt like it lasted forever. I saw people fall off, but it’s a blur.' ” Tragically over a dozen dead so far.
LAOS I: Laos: Bodies found amid flooding, hundreds remain missing
“The disaster left more than 6,600 people homeless, the Lao News Agency reported on Tuesday. It showed pictures of villagers wading through muddy floodwater carrying their belongings. Others boarded rickety wooden boats or stood on the roofs of partially submerged houses.”
LAOS II: Laos warns of possible flooding in Luang Prabang and other northern provinces
“Authorities added that the water level at the Nam Ou 2 dam in the northern Luang Prabang province has exceeded the "warning point".”
LAOS III: Disaster could spur rethink of Laos’ dam-building frenzy
“While international attention has been focused on existing and planned dams on the mainstream Mekong River in China and Laos, less attention has been given to plans for the construction of up to 120 dams on smaller rivers and tributaries.”
THAILAND I: Billions earmarked for Isaan airports
Anything to encourage more diversified tourism has to be a good thing, though would be great to see more money earmarked for trains rather than planes.
THAILAND II: Mekong's banks at bursting point as deluge continues
“According to Mr Tassanai, the rising water in the Mekong is being caused not only by the continual ran but also by water discharge from a dam in China.”
THAILAND III: Crisis of faith within Buddhism?
“In his eyes, however, even meditation alone is not enough for monks to survive today.”
VIETNAM I: Mekong Delta’s splendors now a relic of the past
“Worse, nature itself is at stake. The push for aquaculture has seen people destroy protective coastal forests to make room for new ponds, groundwater is dwindling due to overexploitation, erosion is becoming increasingly common in the region.”
VIETNAM II: Work speeds up on expressway through Vietnamese national park
What is a national park if there isn’t an expressway through it?
Travel writing
BUDGET TRAVEL: 9 simple tech tips for travellers on a budget
Pennies saved equals more days of travel!
INDONESIA: Jakpost explores Mount Bromo
“Tourists usually spend one to two days marveling at the sunrise and the crater. But the place also hosts other attractions worth exploring.”
THAILAND: Kathoey cabaret: Where beauty blurs
“This glimpse behind the scenes offers a little bit of context into what can be a very flashy and superficial show, but also offers a peek into a social group that remains a mystery to many travelers and non Thai’s, one many have a difficult time fully understanding.”
TRAVEL: Travel epiphanies with Stuart McDonald
When in Bangkok recently, Stuart sat down with Siddhant from Thailand Starter Kit and talked and talked and talked some more. This a replug from a few weeks ago.
Interesting site
Bahasa Kita
BahasaKita is an Indonesian language online resource. A practical Indonesian language learning site which teaches the difference between daily spoken Indonesian and the formal language learned at schools or courses. Anyone can learn Indonesian from here.
Travel shot
Vroom vroom. Photo: Mark Ord
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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