Travelfish newsletter Issue 301 : Probolinggo + the cost of going local + Kratie
Hi all,
New on Travelfish this week are two low-key spots: frequently loathed (though we liked it!) Probolinggo in Indonesia's East Java and remote Hat Sa in a fast-changing far northern Laos.
On the road, David has finally dragged himself away from Thailand’s eastern islands and is now firmly chained to a desk in Bangkok writing about beaches instead of walking down them, Cindy is close to winding up in Luang Prabang, Sally is freshly landed and scoffing in Jakarta and Stuart is (still) in Bali.
Sam, who arrived in Hanoi a week ago, immediately got ill and has been bedridden for a week—imagine the horror of being stranded in a food city like Hanoi with no stomach for food... the horror! A big shout out to our friends Mark & Tu for keeping her alive—their Hanoi food walks are the best in the country... not that Sam would know!
This week’s soapbox looks at health and safety on the tourist trail. We have no new book review this week due to our primary book reviewer being too ill to turn a page in a book, so have picked one from our archives.
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Soapbox
The cost of going local
It is a regular mantra for us here at Travelfish: “Support local communities!” And wherever possible we try to highlight locally owned and run businesses and activities. It might be a homestay here or a local guide there—and as independent travel has grown across the region, so have the offerings.
A story in last week’s newsletter however left me thinking a bit about this advice. A story on BirminghamLive detailed the rescue of a trekker from Birmingham who had fallen into the crater of Gunung Batur on Bali. She was saved by an English fireman who was in the same group, and the story read:
“John [the fireman], from Erdington, said he shouted out to the rest of the group and realised he was the only one who had any medical training and asked the guide to show him the safest route down.”
I enjoy climbing volcanoes—I’m not particularly good at it, but my inner-masochist loves it. I’ve been on multi-day arranged treks and half day casual climbs. I’ve been led by all sorts, from sinewy old men to barefoot children and I’ve never thought to ask what (if any) medical training the guides will have had—in many (if not all) cases I would guess probably none at all.
It’s not just volcano climbing of course that has the potential for injury—trekking, diving, snorkelling, whitewater rafting, motorcycle tours or even a cycling tour can go sideways into a ditch, off a cliff and so on.
While they are keen to ban foreigners working as guides, often there is no official government requirement for local guides to have first aid training. On the other hand, international tour companies are often legally bound in their home country to have (at least their full-time) guiding staff undergo first aid training (though in practice, not all companies do this). That these guides then often work on a “consulting basis” in conjunction with a local guide on the ground means there will still be somebody with some training on the trip—better than nothing.
When we asked around, we were told that first aid training is not a compulsory part of tour guide licensing in Cambodia, Laos, Thailand or Vietnam. In Thailand, first aid training is an optional supplement, but why isn’t it a compulsory part of training in all countries?
Government policies banning foreign guides is ostensibly the case to protect the jobs of local guides, but by banning foreign guides, yet not compelling local guides to undergo first aid training, seems a stance that actively puts tourist well-being at risk. A guide being trained on how to correctly treat a venomous snake bite, for example, could save a life.
Of course there is a cost involved in training guides in first aid, and even foreign company owners we talked to were circumspect on how well trained their staff were—citing ongoing cost (first aid training often needs to be updated every two years) as a primary concern in an industry often struggling for reliable profitability.
But then in countries like Thailand and Indonesia, foreigners entering national parks are routinely charged anything up to 30 times the amount a local is charged, so where is that money going? I suggest a sound investment would be first aid training for guides.
A double benefit, especially in remote communities, is that a first-aid trained local guide could also use their skills to improve and maintain the health of their own community—and that has to be a good thing.
In the meantime, what should you do? I’m not trying to suggest that you stop doing tours with local companies and instead only use foreign companies—far from it. But what I would say, is when you are signing up for a local tour, ask a hard question.
Ask “Are your guides trained in first aid?” and if the answer is no, ask why not? The more people ask, the more it becomes a selling point.
If you’re really concerned, do a first aid training course yourself before leaving. Obviously that will be of limited use if you’re the one who falls into the volcanic crater, but if someone else does, perhaps your training will save their life.
Another thing to consider is rather than packing a single compact medical kit for your travels (you read our epic packing piece from last week right?!), pack two. Then, when you do a trek, or a climb or some other adventure, in conjunction with a small community who clearly has no first aid training, donate your second kit to them.
And stick to the path on volcanoes!
Safe travels
Stuart
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What we’re reading
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
It’s not focused on Southeast Asia — Indonesia gets the briefest of mentions — but if you’re a surfer (as so many travellers to this region are), you love a surfer (ditto), or you’re just intrigued by the culture (double ditto), Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is for you.
Thank you
Just a few quick words of thanks to businesses who have decided to advertise direct with us on Travelfish recently. If you know a business, small or large, who may be interested in advertising on the site, please send them our One Page Media Kit!
A special thanks to Vietnam-based VD Travel, new on board this week, offering trending itineraries across the region.
Other advertisers include Asia Highlights offer tailor made travel through Vietnam, Take Me Tour offer experiences with locals out of Chiang Mai and, last but not least, Akha Kitchen offer Thai cooking classes in Chiang Rai.
Featured destination
Kratie
If you’re in Phnom Penh and are eyeing the northern route to Laos’ panhandle it can be tempting to do the trip in one hit, with a bus blast through to the Lao frontier, bus, as always, there are a handful of spots along the way conspiring to slow down your travels—and you know us, we love slow travel and one of our favourite stop-offs is lackadaisical Kratie.
A charming, cheerful little town on the Mekong, Kratie is best known for its dolphins, in particular the Mekong Irrawaddy dolphins, of which less than 100 of the dwindling population frolic in the waters off the village of Kampi, just a hop skip and a jump (well, about 20km to be exact) north of town. But, and you knew we were going to say this, Kratie is worth a drop-by for more than just these dolphins.
The laid back town makes for an excellent base for exploring the river and surrounding areas, including bucolic Koh Trong, a three-kilometre long island facing the town’s riverfront. We’re going to utterly abuse the word “lovely” here, because it really is—grab a bicycle in Kratie, catch the ferry across, throw in a stop for a coconut or two, and we think you may have found your very own riverine paradise.
The town itself too has enough colonial architecture to reward wanderers, as well as a good handful of welcoming guesthouses, and a smattering of decent places to eat which have grown up to meet the steadily growing (though still very low) number of tourists. Head south and you’ll find the small riverside town of Chhlong, once home to a busy colonial outpost whose shabby vestiges can still be found. The ride down to Chhlong whose route is lined by tall-stilted homes standing proud in fields that will no doubt be flooded in less arid times of the year—is lovely.
If you want to explore further, you can do so with a guide or tour operator, or under your own steam. There are boat trips, hiking, cycle trips, homestays, camping, fishing, birdwatching and kayaking to be done. Many guesthouses run their own tours, but there are also other operators in town that are worth checking out.
Slow down and remember, less is more.
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Tours and activities: TourRadar, GetYourGuide
Ground transport: 12Go Asia
Travel insurance: World Nomads
News from the region
BURMA: The genocide the US didn’t see coming
“Many scholars argue, however, that Myanmar’s central challenge—and the key to understanding it—is not about democracy, but whether the country can overcome its mind-boggling number of ethnic and religious conflicts.” This is a really excellent piece—for anyone still considering travel to Burma but not familiar with the background, this is essential reading.
BURMA II: Why are we surprised when Buddhists are violent?
“Nevertheless, the violence against the Rohingya is certainly related to increasingly popular campaigns in recent years to revive Myanmar’s Buddhist tradition (understood by some to be the marker of “real” Burmese identity) and to protect it particularly against the threat that Islam is thought to represent.”
CAMBODIA I: Cambodian genocide documented in victims’ preserved clothes
““You’re not going to necessarily cry or have memories when you see a skull, but when you see a skirt that’s the same pattern as your mother’s, then that’s going to bring these memories that are so palpable, and this is so powerful,” she said.”
CAMBODIA II: A new reservoir in Cambodia
“As recently as 2010, only 3 percent of Cambodia’s domestically generated electricity came from hydropower. By 2016, hydropower was the source of 60 percent of it.”
CAMBODIA III: Byron Bay woman facing double hand amputation after catching malaria
“ 'The main issue now is the necrosis. The doctors have said they are going to give it a few more days to see if there is any miracle recovery, but on Friday he said if he had to operate he would take all 10 toes and both hands,' Ms Wilson said.”
INDONESIA I: 'Plastic, plastic, plastic': British diver films sea of rubbish off Bali
“A British diver has captured shocking images of himself swimming through a sea of plastic rubbish off the coast of the Indonesian tourist resort of Bali.” Hardly shocking as has been like this for years unfortunately, but good to keep it in the news cycle to raise awareness.
INDONESIA II: Indonesia aims to banish toxic waste from lifeline river
“His ministry is spearheading a new campaign to achieve President Joko Widodo's ambition of making the water in Indonesia's most strategic river basin drinkable by 2025.”
INDONESIA III: A ring of naval wreck robbers
“But the ring didn't work alone. These activities of illegal salvaging have taken place in large part of South East Asia. As of 2017, around 48 naval shipwrecks have been lifted from under water by the ring since 2013.” Imagine a work crew showing up at your local war cemetery and digging up all the tombs to sell the wood from the coffins.
LAOS: Building bridges between Laos and Thailand for better lives
“However, life hasn’t always been easy for her. Before the bridge was built, crossing to Mukdahan was lengthy and exhausting. The only transportation available then was the ferry. For Ko, every journey meant a long wait for the boat, crammed space with 40-50 passengers, climbing up and down the riverbanks and a public bus ride from the border checkpoint in Thailand.”
SINGAPORE: Why Singapore’s moves to curb ‘fake news’ may backfire
“Once this background has been filled in, the concern over the introduction of any further legislation to regulate online space — one of the few spaces in which Singaporeans can still find freedom to engage in political discussion—is clear. ”
SOUTHEAST ASIA: Asia’s hunger for sand takes a toll on endangered species
“Land reclamation projects, too, have a rapacious hunger for sand. Singapore, for example, has expanded its land area by 22% using sand primarily from Malaysia, Cambodia, and Indonesia as fill. All told, UNEP warned, sand mining—on an industrial scale and by individual operators—"greatly exceeds natural renewal rates" and "is increasing exponentially."”
VIETNAM I: The greatest cave on Earth can't speak, so we need to give it a voice
“I immediately felt suffocated. Darkness completely consumed us. I raised my hand in front of my face but could not see it. I looked down at my feet but couldn’t tell where I was standing. At that moment, I thought: Is this what it feels like to die? When we are still conscious but our bodies have gone. At that moment, I realized how powerless humankind is in the face of nature.”
VIETNAM II: Once thriving floating market gasping for air in Vietnam's Mekong Delta
“Before its slow demise, the market was a thriving hub for decades along the maze of canals on the southern side of the Bassac River. Floating upon the confluence of seven canals running from the Delta's capital, the market stretched for miles, and a whole town prospered from it, growing into a commercial hub in a multi-cultural, multi-ethnic region.”
Travel writing
INDONESIA: Living in the shadow of Mount Sinabung
“Mount Sinabung is different. It’s the volcano that won’t stop erupting, and is shaping up to be one of the longest running ongoing natural disasters in Indonesia.”
Singapore: Where to find the city’s best hawker food
“Today, Singapore has some 218 hawker centres. Such is their renown they’ve become the focus of innumerable TV shows and arguments over who makes the best chicken rice or chilli crab; local newspapers The Straits Times and Lianhe Zaobaoare also award annual accolades for Singapore’s top hawker masters. Here’s where those who opt to spend time in Singapore should go for their hawker fix.”
VIETNAM: Indulging your inner castaway on Con Dao
“Everything was much more peaceful facing inland, with exposed rocks blocking the waves and leaving the water lapping at empty beaches. The remoteness and tranquility really did lead to a feeling that I was here on this island all by myself.”
Interesting site
Yangon Time Machine
“I find old photos, take new photos, and you hopefully enjoy them. Updates regularly.” Love it!
Travel shot
Don’t forget the horse. Photo: Sally Arnold
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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