Travelfish newsletter Issue 377 : CoronaKarma + Travelfish reader survey 2020!
Hi everyone,
Sorry everyone, due to technological challenges at Casa Travelfish, I missed last week’s newsletter, so I’m making it up to you with a double length suggested reading list this week—and don’t forget the survey! Stuck in self-quarantine? I’m here to help!
Not all Bali's beaches are over-run. Photo: Stuart McDonald
If you haven’t done it already, please consider setting aside the time to do the Travelfish reader survey. I’m thrilled to already have 420 submissions and it would be great to hit 500—or even more! I will publish the full results at the end of the month. Thank you!
Coronavirus update: This week I’m all about the Coronavirus and what to keep in mind when deciding if you are going to put your trip on hold (or not!) Should you wear a mask? Unless you are sick, probably not.
Please don’t forget we have a donate to Travelfish page. If you’d like to make a one-off (or regular even!) donation, please see here. Thank you!
Lastly, if you’re heading to Thailand for the first time, you may enjoy another newsletter we have called “Welcome to Thailand”. It starts with a series of daily emails, each covering an introductory aspect of Thailand. Then it switches to a weekly (Tuesday) instalment, each recommending a destination or attraction in Thailand that you may not have heard of. All subscribers also get a complimentary PDF itinerary for Southern Thailand. Sign up here.
Till next week!
Stuart
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CoronaKarma
Have you reached Coronavirus saturation point yet? The spreading virus continues to consume a gargantuan amount of electronic column inches as it spreads not just through Southeast Asia but around the globe.
In Southeast Asia, confirmed cases remain relatively low (suspiciously so, some would say), and different governments are having varying degrees of success in both identifying cases and having appropriate planning in place to deal with and suitably care for serious cases.
Singapore and Vietnam are arguably doing the best, with Laos and Burma dragging the chain. Indonesia in particular appears to have suspiciously few cases, with many pundits suggesting a far more comprehensive screening regime is required. Thailand on the other hand flip flopped on rules regarding mandatory self-quarantine for 14 days for inbound travellers and Cambodia has just announced a second infection.
As of this morning, the John Hopkins summary page lists for following confirmed cases and deaths:
Singapore: 150
Malaysia: 99
Thailand: 50 with 1 dead
Vietnam: 30
Philppines: 10 with 1 dead
Indonesia: 6
Cambodia: 2
With these numbers in mind, you’re still far more likely to have a scooter accident than catch Coronavirus—and if you were to look at this in isolation, you’d be mad not to think “why wouldn’t I go?” Unfortunately it isn’t this simple and even the best laid plans can be thrown to the wind by the ever-changing regulations and curtailment of flights within the region.
The big one is some countries requiring travellers to regions with an outbreak (Italy, South Korea, Iran and China being the most commonly cited, but even this keeps on changing) to undergo self-quarantine for 14 days. This becomes a major issue if you’re on a seven-day beach break and have an unsympathetic boss who is going to baulk at giving you that extra leave time.
Travel insurance, more often than not is now refusing to cover medical costs and trip interruption as a result of Coronavirus, another issue that rightfully gives many people pause. My advice? If you’re still planning on visiting the region, be sure to pay the extra to get a changeable ticket so that if matters do go sidewise, or if one of the countries changes their rules yet again, you’re not left holding the can thanks to a non-refundable, non-changeable ticket.
Tourism to Southeast Asia has taken a massive hit, with many countries seeing drops north of 30%. While this is often a reflection of an over-reliance on inbound Chinese tourists (hence the title of this week’s newsletter), plenty of others are also reconsidering. Traditionally many north Americans for example would fly to Southeast Asia via South Korea, Japan or Taiwan, but flights in particular from South Korea are being curtailed, and even if you get through that way, you may land in Thailand only to find yourself on the receiving end of of a 14-day self-quarantine in your hotel.
Happy days!
So, what is my advice, for now. If you’re on a short trip, and have zero flexibility, I’d suggest seriously considering postponing your travels. Not because you might catch Coronavirus, but because a trip interruption or quarantine could really throw a cat among the pigeons. If you are concerned about catching the virus, and especially if you are an older traveller (as elderly people do appear to be suffering more seriously from the virus), then yes, reconsider carefully and do read the fine print on your travel insurance policy.
For travellers with a looser timeline and plenty of flexibility, then there are some great deals to be had on accommodation (contact hotels direct rather than through the online agents to get some smashing rates). Importantly, by still travelling to the region, you’ll be able to do your bit in supporting small family-run businesses that are hurting hard through this crisis.
Am I changing my own travel plans? No. I’m off to Malaysia in a week or so and then have travel planned both in Lombok and Sumatra—I have no plans (at this stage) to change any of these trips. That said, I am lucky enough to be very flexible with my travel schedule and, well, I’m my own boss, so I’m not going to get sacked if I end up in quarantine in Banda Aceh or Bukittinggi!
Good travels
Stuart
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Twenty things worth reading
Given I missed last week’s newsletter, here is a double dose of stuff worth reading.
Dams, Sand, Rice: The life and possible death of the Mekong Delta
My favourite read of the fortnight. “Hanging over all of this, like knives slicing apart C?u Long, are the upstream dams, a problem which Vietnam has little control over.”
The American businessman who went through hell in a Burmese prison
This story is totally bonkers.
Zam Zam murder mayhem
A rivalry that has spanned almost a century comes to a head.
For Australia's Muslims, Indonesian seafaring history gives a sense of belonging
“The story of the Australia’s “First Nations’” 60,000 year-plus history on the land and their long and deep relationship with the Makassans resonated with many Muslim youth. The two peoples traded sea cucumbers, exchanged ideas and language, inter-married and lived among each other from the 1500s or possibly earlier, according to historians.”
Meet the female squad who clear out Vietnam's unexploded bombs
““It is an honour to wear the uniform of the project everyday, so even if we aren’t able to wear make up or a beautiful dress like everyone else, we all feel proud from the bottom of our hearts,” says Lan. ”
Myanmar start-up turns clutter to handicrafts
“Dozens of designers have been trained up and now work in the business, crafting everything from wallets made out of potato chip packets to laptop covers made from cement bags.”
Laos’ Four Thousand Islands
“There are no cars, few motorbikes, no ATM machines, no pollution, no hustle and bustle. There’s not much to do except slip into a hammock and watch the river keep on rolling from the balconies of cafes and guest houses, which lure customers with billboards unashamedly offering bongs, beer, happy pizzas, weed and mushrooms.”
Who will save Luang Prabang?
“An even greater danger to the survival of this cultural oasis comes from a massive hydropower project. The Luang Prabang dam is located perilously close, just 25 kilometers upstream on the Mekong from this world heritage city.”
The tragedy and hope of a palace
“She said her family has been taking care of the Haw because of its historical value for the Shan people who grew up during the time of the military regime, as “they know nothing of our history.””
Bangkok photos of old districts and architecture
“He has been rewarded for his pains with exquisite images of a timeless, nostalgic quality. His aim in taking them has been to capture on film, perhaps for the last time, photogenic old buildings and streets that could soon be torn down to make way for glitzy condominiums, hotels and malls.”
On the complicated questions around writing about travel
“Travel is about the desire to cross boundaries as well as tangible encounters with walls and borders. Questions of travel should go beyond the rainbow, digging deep into the greasy moments, disjuncture, power relations, and social inequalities.”
An interview with Zakariya Amataya
“My first language is Melayu but my professional language is Thai, it allows me to express myself. Now, I even dream in Thai.”
Traditional snack sellers in Jakarta grapple with dwindling demand, modern tastes
“While some sellers have tried to attract new customers by selling other snacks and treats or modifying the kue putu with new flavours and fillings, Mr Sahro has kept his recipe authentic.”
One family is reviving Cambodian original music
“But why were people all over the world this excited about one song in Khmer from a mother and daughter in California? To understand that, we have to cross an ocean and go back in time, to the Cambodia of Thida's childhood.”
Sail through Ha Long Bay's dreamy seascape
““What’s unusual about the karst towers at Ha Long Bay is that such a beautiful place inspires not just geologists, but artists, science, and painters to come together to understand the landscape.””
Indonesia: A Kingswood Country time forgot
“The Aussie cars found favour as status symbols for wealthy government officials and military top brass; some were even released for private sale to colonels and civil servants as their mileage built up.”
Experts fear Coronavirus is spreading undetected in Southeast Asia
“At the beginning of the outbreak, several of these governments downplayed the severity of the threat, publicly voicing their wariness of offending the superpower upon whom their economies rely. In lieu of public health precautions or stringent defenses, they offered folk remedies—suggesting everything from consuming onions or alcohol to working less to ward off coronavirus.”
Don’t poke the nest
“Burning effigies of dam proponents like Thepsutin has become a regular tactic for the Kaeng Suea Ten activists. Many residents credit the success of their campaign in part to these rituals, with one government official targeted by the residents reportedly coming to the village to ask the activists to remove the curse.”
Cambodia’s sand mining threatens Mekong
“He complains there's no government transparency when it comes to sand mining in Cambodia. So no one really knows what's legal and what's not. The sand miners, he and other environmentalists say, work for companies linked to powerful tycoons with government connections.”
“Very Bangkok” deftly dissects Thai capital
“But it’s not only the obvious senses that are being discussed in the book, it also includes invisible, undesirable, and supernatural domains.”
Something to read
Sarong Party Girls
“A beach read with a difference, Sarong Party Girls by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan is light and breezy but at its core is a subversive message about Singaporean society and the place women have in it.”
Travel shot
A quiet moment in Sangkhlaburi. Photo: Stuart McDonald
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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