Travelfish newsletter Issue 373 : Thailand’s northeast by train + Coronavirus
Hi everyone,
This week I’ve written a piece on a simple but very interesting trip through Thailand’s northeast—largely possible by train travel. Meanwhile, new on the site is Ko Libong in Southwest Thailand. I should have Ko Sukorn up tomorrow.
Damn. Photo: Stuart McDonald
Coronavirus: Yes it has been rightly all over the news, and continues to gain numbers. Some regional travel, especially if you’ve been in China recently is becoming increasingly complicated—so please do be sure to keep abreast of current events. Would I advise cancelling travel to Southeast Asia? No, but I would say try to avoid flying when possible (trains are good!), avoid large crowds, and be extra aware re washing hands, snogging strangers and so on.
The verdict on should you wear a mask if you are not infected is very much up for debate. Please read widely and make up your own mind. This piece includes some astonishingly bad takes from ministerial people who should know far better, while this Foreign Policy story has advice from people who actually know what they are talking about.
Last week I messed up a couple of the links in the ten things to read section, so here they are again: Really cool maps and The Mekong Delta and cargo boats. Apologies for the stuff up!
Two final notes. Firstly, the smart cookies at Frontier Myanmar launched their membership programme last week. If you’d like to support quality and independent media in Burma, please consider taking out a subscription—I grabbed the annual package. Secondly, if you’re more tech inclined, The Ken has broadened their focus to Southeast Asia and has some of Southeast Asia’s best tech talent slaving away—this invitation code from me will add you to the waiting list.
Till next week!
Stuart
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Destination: Thailand’s northeast by train, well some of it anyway
With low cost carriers all the rage and no shortage of airports, time-strapped travellers can be tempted to fly far more than they really need to in many of the countries in Southeast Asia and Thailand is no exception.
I’m off there this week, and had originally planned to ride the Mae Hong Son Loop, finishing in Chiang Mai in time for a conference I had planned to attend. The meet-up got postponed (thanks Coronavirus) and so I started looking at other options.
First off the rack was a trek from Sangkhlaburi to Umphang in Thailand’s west, but I’m a bit leery of being out of range for that long just in case matters do go pear-shaped and I need to head home (thanks again Coronavirus). This morning, plan C solidified, a bit of a traipse through Thailand’s northeast by train.
I’m a big fan of train travel, and I love Thailand’s northeast. While it will be hazy, February shouldn’t be tooooo hot, and regardless I’ll put up with a lot just to be able to eat northeastern food three times a day.
We have two existing itineraries for the Northeast on Travelfish—this one for two weeks, and this one for four, and depending on how I go time-wise, I’m aiming for a bit of a combination—best of all, much of it can be down by train. Here’s what I have in mind.
I’ll start with the train from Bangkok out to Khorat (Nakhon Ratchasima), from where I can do a side trip to the Khmer ruins at Phimai, then Buriram, a side trip to Phanom Rung (more Khmer ruins), then Surin, Si Saket (more Khmer ruins still) and Ubon Ratchathani.
From Ubon I’ll leave the train line behind to head out to Khong Chiam to wave at Laos across the dwindling waters of the Mekong, then head north to Mukdahan, That Phanom and Nakhon Phanom. From here I’ll aim for the longish slow bus ride over the top through Beung Kan to Nong Khai.
From Nong Khai I could easily jump back on the train to head back to Bangkok (stopping at Udon Thani (side trip to Ban Chiang) and Khon Kaen along the way), but, time allowing, I’ll press west to one of my all time favourite Mekong towns, Sangkhom. It is the perfect place to take a breath.
At Sangkhom I’ll take a look at my watch and either continue west to Chiang Khan and Loei, else, if time is running out, jump on an overnight bus to Chiang Mai to catch up with some of the other conference attendees who decided to go anyways. When I’m finished there, I’ll most likely get a night train back to Bangkok for my flight home.
A whole chunk of the country and not a step near an airport (except for Bangkok of course!).
Thailand’s 3rd class trains might be a tad slow, but they’re comfortable enough for a few hours, and they’re a great window into locals just getting on with their lives—and, of course, there is plenty to eat along the way.
So, don’t be too hasty to open up flight timetables—Thailand’s train system is pretty decent and certainly interesting. Tickets can be booked and purchased in advance with a bunch on online agents including Travelfish partner 12Go Asia. Check it out!
Good travels
Stuart
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Ten things worth reading
Holiday spots in southern Thailand face hard times after coronavirus outbreak
This could get far worse before it gets better. In 2019 almost 30% of Thailand’s inbound tourism was from China.
Is Indonesia becoming a two-tier democracy?
“Abolishing direct elections could enable dominant political parties to dilute accountability and block the rise of upstart politicians, who use their direct mandate to challenge party leaders. ”
An interview with New Naratif’s Kirsten Han
“Kirsten and I discuss ‘Manufacturing Consent’ in the context of Singapore, what the current state of democracy is within the country, and how colonial legacies of racism, capitalism, and control, still shape this modern-day financial center.”
We are the citizens
Related to the previous story, Kirsten also runs a very solid Singapore-focused newsletter with both free- and paid versions. You can find out more here.
Experiencing (and staging) Mentawai authenticity in the jungles of Siberut
“Agus is so attuned to his clients’ own visual-narrative desires that, when I was taking my own photos, he would quietly go in and remove modern-looking items from the scene.”
What was Thailand like in the 70s?
A collection of interesting pics from way back when. (Facebook)
Be flexible: Islamic party lawmaker wants Indonesia to export cannabis
Not often news stories concerning Aceh talk about flexibility—unless they’re talking about a cane. Interesting stuff.
Eight essential noodle dishes from Laos
Why the land mine, a persistent killer of civilians, is coming back
“Experts second-guessed that confidence and have rejected the notion of a “smart” mine as risk-free or danger-free to civilians.”
Positive environmental trends in Asia worth noting
“Another subject which this commentator could have emphasized more in the past year was the role women have played in several South and Southeast Asian nations in improving their families’ well-being and livelihoods by working to protect the environment.”
Indonesia deports US journalist Philip Jacobson after weeks of detention
Last one on this sorry tale hopefully ... until the next one that is.
Something to read
Ring of Fire
“Looking for some inspiration to get off the map in Indonesia? Lawrence Blair will fill your bucket list with incredible places to go.” A classic.
Travel shot
Sunset from the bar at Relax. Not too shabby. Photo: Stuart McDonald
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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