Travelfish newsletter Issue 372 : Thailand’s temple towns, which one is right for you + visa rant
Hi everyone,
This week I’m all about either ors with regard to temple towns in Thailand. I’ve picked out a few towns in Thailand that are well regarded for their historic ruins, but if you’ve not time for them all, which one should you pick? Read on for the skinny.
Strike a pose. Photo: Mark Ord
Coronavirus: Yes it has been rightly all over the news, but there is (seemingly) no need to build a bunker just yet. Please do keep it mind that if you’re planning travel to the region and have not yet purchased your travel insurance yet, it is most likely viewed as what insurers refer to as a “known event”. This means if you end up needing to cancel a trip or flights, you may well not be covered for the expense. Please check with your travel insurance provider for clarification.
Now for a brief non-travel writing whatever interlude, while I have a spit about visas.
Last week I mentioned some of the difficulties journalists and writers face in the region. These difficulties come in many forms—deliberately confusing and ambiguous laws regarding what is required to work (define work?) as a journalist (define journalist?) are two prime candidates. Difficulties can be more in your face though, including physical harassment and arrest.
While far from being limited to Indonesia, a case there last week (which I alluded to in last week’s newsletter, the details were not public at the time), got considerable coverage. An American was arrested for supposedly being on the wrong visa, was eventually jailed, and faced a possible five year stretch. Concerning to say the least, especially given in civil situations like this, deportation would be the more standard response. Thankfully a degree of sanity prevailed (eventually!) and he’s now out of jail. In all likelihood he will be deported and probably blacklisted for who knows how long. Enjoy your last bowls of bakso Phil.
Of course it is the right of every country to maintain whatever laws and visa regulations they feel work for them (regardless of how ridiculous, unfair, racist, or all three, they may appear to us mere applicants). I’d suggest though, we’re well past the due date of dragging visa regulations into the 21st century. Clear rules, uniformly enforced (rather than at the behest of some thin-skinned individual) would be a good start. Likewise, in a time when you could argue anyone with a smartphone is potentially a journalist, and any business executive poolside answering their emails is theoretically working, it seems like there is plenty of scope for clarification.
At the end of the day, visa rules, especially pertaining to journalism, are designed not to facilitate but to control and restrict. That’s a sad state of affairs and often why writers bend them to breaking point to get stories that matter. The world would be a far poorer place informationally without these stories and the efforts of the journalists writing the stories.
So, like I said last week, with this in mind I’d like to take a moment to highlight some publications that are working hard, in some cases in very difficult circumstances, to deliver informed commentary to their readers. Please consider subscribing to, or supporting in some other way, any of the following five publications—I’m sure there are many others, so please excuse any omissions.
Monga Bay (global), New Naratif, Southeast Asia Globe, The Gecko Project, and newcomer to the Thai news scene, Thai Enquirer.
Please don’t forget we have a donate to Travelfish page. If you’d like to make a one-off (or regular even!) donation, please see here. Thank you!
Till next week!
Stuart
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Destination: Either or: Thailand temple towns
For the uninitiated (or uninterested) temples in Thailand—and much of Southeast Asia—can rapidly begin to liken the old “churches of Europe” malaise. Anything, anything but another wat!
Not all wats were made equal though thankfully, and aside from the many modern wats across the country there are plenty of clusters of older and even ancient (by Thai standards) wats that are well worth a looksee. But which should you make the time to go and explore?
Below I cover a few of the main clusters in the central and north parts of the country. Yes, there are plenty of other sites scattered around the joint, but these five form a slightly wiggly route from Bangkok north to the Lao border. These all have historical ties to the Siamese/Thai state and all are very easy to visit and explore.
Ayutthaya
Founded in 1350 by King Uthong, the Siamese capital at Ayutthaya was one of Asia’s grandest cities until the Burmese completely trashed the joint 1767. One of Thailand’s top-ranking heritage destinations, part of the appeal here is that the ruins are intermingled with the city of Ayutthaya, meaning you are not restricted to a heritage park style affair. Ayutthaya also has an outstanding range of accommodation, excellent food and is easily explored by bicycle. It is also just an hour or so from Bangkok. Give it at least a night, two is better.
Sukhothai
Rising in the mid-13th century, Sukhothai laid down much of the cultural and political groundwork for the kingdom that eventually became known as Thailand. Unlike Ayutthaya, the ruins at Sukhothai are contained in a historical park outside the main city. This makes it ideal for day-long cycling trips without worrying about being hit by a truck and the park certainly makes for a beautiful setting. On the downside, you’re separated from the main city where the bulk of accommodation and eating is centred. As with Ayutthaya, the food and digs are excellent. If you’re travelling with kids, especially cycling kids, Sukhothai wins over Ayutthaya. Two nights. Add a night if you plan to daytrip to north to Si Satchanalai.
Si Satchanalai
Set not all that far north of Sukhothai, amid forested hills and fields beside the Yom River, the ruins of Si Satchanalai and Chaliang include 11th-century Khmer sanctuaries, Sukhothai-period temples and kilns used to fire pottery as late as the 16th century. The rural setting draws far fewer visitors than Sukhothai, offering a better chance to explore the ruins at your own pace and in your own way. Most tend to visit here on a daytrip from Sukhothai, but if you have the time, Si Satchanalai warrants an overnight stay, especially with its homestay scene and few visitors. A night should suffice for most.
Kamphaneg Phet
Set astride the wide Ping River and framed by forested mountains in the west, Kamphaeng Phet is best known for a small but worthwhile historical park—it is also home to one of our favourite guesthouses in Thailand. The town occupies a comfortable middle ground between Si Satchanalai and Sukhothai—not many tourists, but the city is humming and has some good food. The ruins, while not deserted, are very quiet—suitable to long slow explorations on two wheels. Allow a night, but Three J Guesthouse can arrange plenty of trips to keep you in the city longer than you may have planned.
Chiang Saen
Yes, skipping Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai on this list and instead opting for Chiang Saen on the Thai/Lao frontier. If you’re heading to Laos, this cute little spot gets often passed over in the rush, but is well worth an overnight stay. Riverfront scenery, easy scooter and bicycle hire and no shortage of ancient chedis and temples to take a look at. Allow a night.
Happy temple hopping!
Stuart
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Travel shot
Dry season ruins at Wat Kamphaeng Ngam. Photo: David Luekens
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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