Travelfish newsletter Issue 362 : North Sumatra
Hi everyone,
Sorry no newsletter last week, primarily due to the N and B keys not working on my keyboard, plus a bodgy laptop charger. I’m back home now though so no more excuses!
Oh Padang food. At Sederhana. Photo: Stuart McDonald
In short, two weeks scootering Northwest Vietnam was absolutely fab and the full write-up should be online this week. In the meantime I have a new two week itinerary for North Sumatra, though I’d suggest holding off visiting till the rains pout the fires out—as it seems the government isn’t racing to.
If you’re heading to Thailand for the first time, you may enjoy another newsletter we have called “Welcome to Thailand”. It starts with a series of daily emails, each covering an introductory aspect of Thailand. Then it switches to a weekly (Tuesday) instalment, each recommending a destination or attraction in Thailand that you may not have heard of. The newsletter is very much aimed at people new to Thailand, so if that is you, you can sign up here. All subscribers also get a complimentary PDF itinerary for Southern Thailand. Sign up here.
Good travels,
Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish crew
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Itinerary
Two weeks in North Sumatra
Sumatra and Kalimantan are in the news for all the wrong reasons at the moment—drowning in smoke from often illegally started fires to make way for ever more palm plantations. The smoke has drifted over Malaysia and Singapore as well, and when I was in Kuala Lumpur briefly last week, the airport air was dire, as it probably will be still when I’m in Singapore next week. It is an emergency that the Indonesian government seems unwilling to seriously act on—year after year...after year.
When the rains do eventually come later this year they’ll hopefully do a better job than the government at putting the fires out and the air should clear—at least till next time. When the air does clear, consider North Sumatra for your first incursion into the amazing Indonesian island of Sumatra.
This two week itinerary takes you through what are arguably the four highlights of the region.
Start in Medan, then head west to the Gunung Leusur National Park and Bukit Lawang. While the park is hemmed in by palm plantations, the real attraction lies within, with an excellent opportunity to see orangutan and other wildlife in their natural environment. In as little as a half day trek you can see these incredible creatures in their natural habitat and finish off inner tubing down a beautiful river to return to home base. Those with more time can do longer treks, with a one night two day wander being particularly popular.
From Bukit Lawang swing back via Medan to Berastagi in the Karo Highlands. Climb the impressive Gunung Sibayak, do a half day trip to see Gunung Sinabung, or just eat strawberries and enjoy the cooler weather.
Then onwards south to the highlight of all Sumatra, Lake Toba. Lose a day, a week or a month here relaxing by the waters, enjoying the magnificent scenery and exploring the island and mainland by hired scooter or car. We only had time for a few days, but with time up your sleeve you could easily spend far longer.
From Toba you could return to Medan or continue south, further into Sumatra—Bukittinggi is just an 18 hour bus ride away. Yes, this is Sumatra and it is big.
Read the full two week itinerary here.
Good travels
Stuart
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Ten things worth reading
Half of tigers rescued from Thai temple have died, officials say
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“The guide targets mainly locals, but it can also be interesting for international tourists who may want to eat like a local while navigating the mighty river for important landmarks and attractions along Tha Sathon, Tha Din Daeng, Tha Ratchawong and Tha Wat Worachanyawas. ”
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Riding Northwest Vietnam
A thread on Twitter of my recent scooter trip in Northwest Vietnam. Full write-ups coming soon!
Damming the Mekong River
“As much as 3.8 million tons of fish exist in the Sambor reach alone, making up 40-70% of the Mekong’s total migratory fish. As new dams are built, sediment is prevented from shifting downstream, removing vital nutrients from the ecosystem.”
Something to read
Night Sky With Exit Wounds
Award-winning, 2016-published Night Sky With Exit Wounds is a beautiful collection of often startling poems by Vietnamese-born, American-raised refugee Ocean Vuong. Spanning war, the fall of Saigon, gay love, families and much more, the poems may traverse sometimes familiar ground, but they offer fresh perspectives using language that sparkles as if its very words were diamonds.
Travel shot
Cool off at Efrata Waterfall. Photo: Stuart McDonald
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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