Travelfish newsletter Issue 356 : Indonesia’s Nusa Penida
Hi everyone,
This week we’re all about Nusa Penida in Indonesia. Just a few years ago it barely featured on traveller itineraries, but, largely thanks to Instagram, that has changed. Big time.
The scale is immense. Photo: Sally Arnold
I’m just finishing up another quick Peninsular Malaysia trip, expect to read about Ipoh and the Cameron Highlands on Travelfish very soon.
Also a very belated plug to an interview I did with Asia Art Tours. Please do give it a listen as we discuss everything from off the path travel to architecture through to a bit of politics and how travel in the region has changed. You can listen to the full podcast here. And thank you Asia Art Tours for having me.
In case you missed this in the last three (!) newsletters, in other news, we’ve added the first of a series of new newsletters. Called “Welcome to Thailand” it starts with a series of seven daily emails, each covering an introductory aspect of Thailand. A week later it switches to a weekly (Tuesday) instalment, each recommending a destination or attraction in Thailand that you may not have heard of. The newsletter is very much aimed at people new to Thailand, so if that is you, you can sign up here. All subscribers also get a complimentary PDF itinerary for Southern Thailand.
We plan to roll this out for other countries as well, but we’re starting with the big one.
Good travels,
Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish crew
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Destination
Indonesia: Nusa Penida
Set just off the east coast of Bali, glistening Nusa Penida was for years one of Bali’s best kept secrets. Over the last few years however, and in no small part due to the influence of Instagram, the island has exploded in popularity. As is seemingly often the case, things are changing fast, so you want to go there today rather than tomorrow. Here is why.
For starters Nusa Penida is well easy to get to, just 45 minutes to an hour from Bali by speedboat, so off your flight and you’ll be on the island by lunch time. How good is that?
Once you’re there, you’ll be spoilt for choice on the accommodation front, regardless of if you are looking for backpacker digs or something with more creature comforts. The food scene likewise has improved dramatically over the years, and while it ain’t quite fine dining, gone are the days when there was nothing to be had on the island other than fish and rice.
The real attractions though are those of a more natural bent. Instagram’s all time fave Kelingking, tumbling into the sea like the spine of a brontosaurus is just jawdroppingly stunning—even if you won’t have the view to yourself anymore. Another cracking cliff faced beach is Atuh, and best of all it isn’t quite on the hordes’ radar to quite the same extent as Kelingking.
Angel’s Billabong and Broken Beach are two other highlights, though do take care and pay attention to the warning signs as people continue to be swept off to their deaths here. Be careful!
Off the beach, there are waterfalls, viewpoints, a cave temple and an interesting weaving village. All are relatively easy to reach under your own steam, or with a guide. Those looking for something a little different may want to consider a spell volunteering with the Friends of National Park Foundation—lots of good work happening here.
Back to the water, but this time under the surface, Nusa Penida offers some of the best diving around Bali and the snorkelling (for now) remains reasonable. Manta Bay is named that for a reason, and this is a great spot to sea manta rays, both for snorkellers and divers. Note though, that as with most of Indonesia, plastic refuse in the water can be a real problem, so cross your fingers and hope for favourable currents and breeze.
So how long should you give Nusa Penida? We say three days is a good taster, but hey, you’re on holiday right? Three weeks works!
Good travels
Stuart
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Ten things worth reading
This is your brain on travel
“Want to maximize your brain's neuroplasticity? A change of scenery wakes up your brain and takes it off autopilot.”
From August, Ha Long will ban plastic bottles, bags on tour boats
“Currently, as many as 5,000 wet napkins and 5,000 plastic bottles are used and discarded daily in the UNESCO heritage site. ”
Zero-dollar tourism surges in Myanmar
“Despite a growing call from locals, authorities seem reluctant to crackdown or regulate the zero-dollar tourism run by Chinese tour operators.”
The nine best cafes in Thonglor and Ekkamai
“These venues are just a snapshot of soi 49-63’s booming coffee shop culture, which has even begun spreading to the other side of Sukhumvit. ”
Vietnam by train
“Jagged limestone karsts jut out from the fields, splinters of the mountainous ridge that delineates much of Vietnam’s western border with Cambodia and Laos, and the views of rice fields and villages continue to roll by.”
The Armenians of Myanmar
“Once a prominent community of merchants and diplomats, the number of Armenians in Myanmar has dwindled to a few hundred at most. Yet they continue to learn Armenian (if only for liturgy and hymns), uphold Armenian traditions (even if they celebrate Thingyan alongside Orthodox Christmas) and maintain their church (even if many have become Buddhists).”
Mission impossible: Myanmar and the Rohingya
“But the refugees do not want to go back to the killing fields in Rakhine state.”
Mental health care in Indonesia: short on supply, short on demand
“In the current culture of Indonesian health-seeking patterns, many Muslim Indonesians—who may interpret mental illnesses to be derived from spiritual and/or metaphysical causal factors—will initially seek out a religious teacher or ustadz instead of a doctor, and have them perform a ruqyah, a healing ritual that involves the recitation of Quranic verses.”
The fight to save Bangkok's green lung
“All these strict laws set by the government make it seem like things are heading in the right direction, but Bang Kachao business owners say they’re receiving mixed signals.”
Missing Mekong waters rouse suspicions of China
“It is just the kind of nightmare feared by the countries downstream - Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam - where tens of millions of people rely on a river that gave rise to the region’s ancient kingdoms.”
Something to read
Map of the Invisible World
“Map of the Invisible World is at heart the story of two Indonesian brothers separated when they are adopted out by different families from an orphanage.”
Travel shot
Best not to keep your back to that swell. Photo: Sally Arnold
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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