Travelfish newsletter Issue 334 : Luang Prabang + Fading guidebooks
Hi all,
OK, so last week’s “a positive take” got some appreciative feedback and we’re working to stick to a middle of the road take—going forward please expect the good, the bad and the ugly—just not all in equal measure! Do also let us know if there are ways you think the newsletter could be improved.
On last week’s three great destinations Muang Sing and particularly Malang scored a fair few “no ways!”—that is the great thing about travel, plenty of room for all sorts of travel tastes :)
This week we’ve completed the sights and attractions in Luang Prabang, which doubles as our featured destination this week—yes it can get very busy there, but read on and you’ll perhaps learn why. We hope so anyway.
Tonight David is heading down to Ko Lanta to get cracking there and Stuart is to KL next week—he will absolutely have Hue finished and online before he goes.
This week’s soapbox laments a change in direction for Rough Guides. It doesn’t feel like the right move to us, but we’ve been wrong plenty of times in the past!
Good travels,
Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish crew
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Soapbox
Another one bites the dust
This week brought a story in The Guardian detailing how one of the great backpacker guide books, Rough Guides, was launching a major overhaul, leading with “Guidebook publisher moves away from book sales to become a tech platform providing bespoke holiday service that aims to ‘change the way people travel’.”
While details are, well, not very detailed, it appears that following a similar path to Insight Guides (which shares the same owner). The website will be used to funnel readers in to purchase adventure travel trips, with publishing envisaged as representing only 10% of sales in the longer term (five to eight years).
While I grew up reading Lonely Planet, I always found Rough Guides to be the more readable of the two brands—especially the “front and back” of the book, where you’d find the history and culture information along with the practicalities or getting around. LP I tended to find stronger on the nuts and bolts of travel, and they always felt to more have their roots in Southeast Asia, while Rough Guides had more of a European birth.
While they haven’t explicitly stated they plan to stop publishing, the Guardian story does suggest they see selling guidebooks to an ageing readership as being “unsustainable”.
In the age of TripAdvisor and Google Travel it is becoming ever more challenging to find detailed, well researched travel information online and I do think this decision is a shame.
I wish them well in the new direction, but I will miss their books.
Good travels,
Stuart
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Featured
Luang Prabang
Located more or less in the middle of northern Laos, for years Luang Prabang held cult status—those who had been knew they were privy to something very special. A charming temple town, beautifully set at the confluence of two chocolate brown rivers, for years the difficulty of reaching UNESCO listed Luang Prabang kept the crowds at bay and the mystique alive.
Within Wat Mai. Photo: Cindy Fan
Today, with improved roads and an international airport boasting daily connections to a glad-bag of regional centres, little visited Luang Prabang is not. The town features on just about every bucket list for the country and, while the crowds can be considerable, if you’ve never been to Laos before it should be on your short list too. Here’s why.
For starters, there are the temples—Luang Prabang includes 34 UNESCO protected wats, but there are others further afield, including across the river in Chompet district which are well worth exploring. The town is famous for the morning monk’s procession, known as tak bat, and it is a favourite for tourists, but please do read our guide to the dos and don'ts regarding how to behave and what not.
Gazing into the grounds of the Royal Palace Museum. Photo: Cindy Fan
You could argue the temples are museums in their own way, but Luang Prabang also has the Royal Palace Museum delivering a more standardised approach, while the UXO Lao Visitor Centre and the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre provide ways to educate yourself on other matters central to an understanding of Laos and why it is how it is.
While it is easy to consider the town as being the main attraction, the surrounds are also well worth exploring. Visit beautiful waterfalls, a bear sanctuary, the tomb of a famous explorer, a butterfly park or even, within the grounds of what was once a royal hunting retreat, some lovely botanical gardens. Charter a boat to cruise upriver visiting the Whiskey Village and the stunning Pak Ou Caves. Plenty of these attractions, and more, are ideal for kids too.
Late light at Wat Aham. Photo: Cindy Fan
Back in town, spend a half day doing a cooking course—we review two schools, though there are others. If that isn't your thing, perhaps a massage, a spot of helping out, or, for those looking for some souvenir gathering, shopping. Luang Prabang is famous in particular for the weaving, but there are also pottery and paper villages which might be of interest.
So there you go—a few ideas for why Luang Prabang is worth a look. Enjoy!
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News from the region
BURMA: Lost idol - New wave of Myanmar youth activists look beyond Suu Kyi
“Activists say the civilian government has also become increasingly authoritarian, failing to use its overwhelming parliamentary majority to scrap colonial-era laws used to stifle dissent, while tightening restrictions on civil society.”
CAMBODIA: Cambodia’s tour guides face tech disruption
“Angkor Audio operation manager, Ny Nou Ros said the app actually complements the industry. Tourist groups and some individuals prefer human tour guides, while “a few thousand more” prefer to be on their own. “We are offering them an option,” he said.”
INDONESIA: The secret deal to destroy paradise
“Our investigation exposes the methods apparently employed to ensure the people who control the fate of these forests?—?through their money, power and political decisions?—?have covered their tracks.”
INDONESIA: Lion Air ponders canceling Boeing jets in row over crash
“Kirana, who is now Indonesia’s envoy to Malaysia but still carries weight at the airline he co-founded with his brother in 2000, ordered the review in response to a Boeing statement focusing attention on piloting and maintenance, the person said.”
MALAYSIA: Durian: the foul-smelling fruit that could make Malaysia millions
“Dogs also roam around the farm to ward off monkeys, who don’t like eating durian but do enjoy picking them from the tree and smashing them on the ground.” We know how they feel.
PHILIPPINES: Philippines reopened ‘paradise’ after six-month cleanup. So why isn’t everyone happy?
“Boracay, experts predict, will become a test-case in whether increasingly crowded get-aways across the world, from Mallorca in Spain to Thailand’s Similan Islands, can recover from decades of over-tourism and environmental damage. ”
SOUTHEAST ASIA: Akan Datang
An always handy wrap on what is happening in the region.
VIETNAM: A message from Mrs Thuan: a Blue Dragon carer
“Once, I had to show a girl how to wash her hair, as she had never used shampoo before.”
Travel writing
CAMBODIA I: What’s not to love about this spicy Cambodian paste?
Just watch the video. I am in tears.
CAMBODIA II: Beyond Angkor Wat: Five ways to enjoy Siem Reap
“Travelers can do their part to spread the tourism wealth by staying a few extra days to explore beyond Angkor Wat and contribute to the local economy, conservation projects, and social enterprises that are paving the way toward a brighter future for locals and creating meaningful experiences for visitors. ”
INDONESIA: How you can help conserve Indonesia's endangered species
“As individuals, we can't make strides toward addressing every single one of the global issues that we face, however we can endeavour to make significant change rather than simply sharing a post or a picture.”
GUIDEBOOKS: Rough Guides launches tailormade trips as part of major overhaul
“The introduction of the Rough Guides trips will increase holiday sales to 30-40% in 2019. In five to eight years time, publishing will represent 10% of overall sales.”
INDONESIA: Bondowoso named “Megalithic City” to attract tourists
“According to official data, a total of 1,215 megalithic sites can be found across the regency.”
INSTAGRAM: Is geotagging on Instagram ruining natural wonders?
We think it is more there are just a tonne of people out and about, but Instagram certainly doesn’t help matters.
MALAYSIA: Meet the Georgetown creatives striving to outshine their UNESCO heritage
“But it’s also true that beyond unsustainable exploitation, Penang has much more to offer. In fact, whether you’re a resident or a fleeting visitor, Georgetown is not just a charming heritage city, but a hub of creativity and community.”
SHOPPING I: Ready to buy your first drone?
Please don’t accuse us of droning on.
SHOPPING II: Traveler gifts that will actually get used – From $10 to $160
“Most frequent travelers tend to spend more on experiences than things, so they have a hard time splurging on themselves even when it’s for something useful. ”
VIETNAM: A list of ideas to improve Saigon
“These ideas range from things that can be done today with no money down, to long-term projects that will take years, political resolve, and trillions of dong.”
Interesting site
The Gecko Project
“The Gecko Project is an investigative journalism initiative established to shine a light on the corruption driving land grabs and the destruction of tropical rainforests.”
Travel shot
Best to get in before the crowds. Photo: Cindy Fan
Till next time
That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia.
Travel light!
Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team
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