This week I’m leading with a terrific piece on tourism by Henry Wismayer—go grab a coffee and give it a read.

A quick update on the whole Substack drama I mentioned last week. I’ve almost finished moving this newsletter, and as long as the plumbing in my house doesn’t detonate again (see below), this should be the final issue coming from Substack. With that in mind, I’m looking for a few volunteers who’d be happy to have their email address added to a test list I’m running—I just need a few sets of eyes to check the new version looks okay in various email clients, that they actually receive it and so on. It would probably be a half-dozen emails or so over the coming week, so if you can help out, please drop me a line at stuartmcdonald@travelfish.org—thank you. And also, thank you for the notes of encouragement and support, they were much appreciated.

On to our water issues. Over the weekend just gone, the plumbing in the house gave up the ghost, meaning we had a bunch of guys digging random holes and generally smashing things up. In the middle of the whole shebang, our well ran dry (no surprise given Bali’s water woes), which, to be honest, sort of made the fact that the drains were all blocked to buggery less pressing. All this was a bit of a distraction—and the main reason why both this newsletter is still coming from Substack and why my uni assignment is still not finished—but it also gave me a new found respect for water. So, it seemed fitting that this week’s theme would be The Stuff Of Life, and while I won’t bore you with photos of guys jackhammering up concrete, I will give you a couple of nice water pics.

I’m in Bangkok from the end of this week for a spell, so if you’re in town and would like to catch up for a coffee, let me know!

Cheers

Stuart

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

Out and about

On the Mekong somewhere near Stung Treng in Cambodia. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• Nice View. Shame About All The Tourists. from Noema Mag

📚 What I’m reading

• Station Eleven by Emily St. John Mandel

🇲🇲 Burma

• Army Or Prison: Forced Recruitment In Myanmar’s Towns And Cities from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• ‘Almost Dead’: Leprosy Patients Languish In Myanmar from Frontier Myanmar ($)

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Two Provinces Suspend Rice Growing Due To Water Shortage from Khmer Times

• Cambodia Issues Measures To Reduce Air Pollution In Dry Season from Cambodianess

• Why Is Vietnam Worried About Cambodia’s Mekong Canal Project? from The Diplomat

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Do Carbon Credits Really Help Communities That Keep Forests Standing? from Mongabay

• Can Animals Evolve Fast Enough To Keep Up With Climate Change? from Hakai Magazine

• Are These ‘Eco-Cities’ The Future Of Sustainable Design? from Atmos

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Bali Introduces IDR150,000 Tourism Levy From February 14, 2024 from Welcome Back To Bali

• ‘Silicon Bali’: Asia’s Paradise For Sustainability Startups? from Eco Business

• From Military Leader To ‘Harmless Grandpa’: The Rebranding Of Indonesia’s Prabowo from The Guardian

• Engaging Children’s Voices For Tourism And Marine Futures Through Drawing In Gili Trawangan, Indonesia from Frontiers

🇱🇦 Laos

• Laos Tourist Jewel At Risk Of Losing UNESCO Status from Nikkei Asia ($)

• Luang Prabang Tourist Entry Fee Hike Sparks Online Divide Among Users from The Laotian Times

• Laos To Balance Tourist Appeal, Hydropower Ambitions from The Laotian Times

• Laos Is Getting A Handle On Its Debt from Nikkei Asia ($)

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• When In Borneo, Don’t Be Afraid To Head Underground from Thrillist

• Sabah Targets Three Million Tourist Arrival This Year, Says State Minister from Malay Mail

• Ex-Malaysian PM’s Lawyer Pressures Netflix To Take Down Documentary from The Guardian

• Lenggong’s Past Beckons Discovery from Borneo Bulletin

🇸🇬 Singapore

• Ponderings On Police Power And Personal Privacy from Rice Media

• Jail, Jail And More Jail from We, The Citizens

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Thailand Moves To Ban Recreational Use Of Cannabis In Setback For Nascent Industry from The Straits Times ($)

• Eight New Thai Airlines To Debut This Year from Bangkok Post

• How Cheap But Excellent US$5 Thai Massages At A No-frills Temple In Chiang Mai Attract Locals And Tourists Alike from SCMP ($)

• PM2.5 To Spike In Capital from Bangkok Post

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Coming Soon To A Meal Near You: Vietnamese Farmed Crickets See Leap In Demand from The Straits Times ($)

• Revisiting Vietnam’s Bootleg DVD Stores, The Dethroned King Of Local Entertainment from Saigoneer

• Growing Energy Concerns from Vietnam Weekly

• A Mekong Island Too Tiny For Industrial Farming Now Points To Vietnam’s Future from Mongabay

Random other stuff

• Resident Travel Writer Vs Visiting Travel Writer from Jack Montgomery

• Can Southeast Asia Tackle Its Epidemic Of Male Suicides? from RFA

• How Can A Content Creator Encourage “Better” Travel? from Travel Massive

• Can Pinterest Predict The Future Of Travel? from Adventure

• The 2024 Travel & Tourism Wishlist For South East Asia from The Southeast Asia Travel Show (Podcast)

• The Fat Of The Land from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• The Dangerous Art Of The Freedive from The Financial Times ($)

Time to get out the paddle

A DIY snorkelling trip island hopping off the coast of Pantar in Indonesia’s east. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

Good travels!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

Happy New Year from West Bali!

I hope you all had an excellent holiday period and are bright-eyed and bushy-tailed ready for a brand-spanking new year. Here at Casa Travelfish, we had a great family Christmas holiday in Thailand, then to the tune of about a bazillion fireworks, we watched the clock tick over to the New Year back in Bali. Sticking to the fireworks theme for a moment, if you’ve ever asked yourself “what would it look like if all the fireworks went off at once?” Hà Tĩnh in northern Vietnam found out.

Before I get onto the regular Southeast Asia news-wrap, first some housekeeping. This newsletter and Couchfish will be moving off the Substack platform in the very near future. They’ll both be transferred from Substack to a self-hosted solution on my own server (where Travelfish and my other random bits and pieces already live). As I have a thesis proposal to finish first, I’m aiming for the move to be finished by the end of January, with this newsletter moving first as its move is more straightforward, with Couchfish to follow by the end of the month. Until then both will continue to be dispatched via Substack.

Why am I moving? The issues with Substack have been covered extensively in the international press, first in a piece by Johnathan M Katz for The Atlantic, with a number of follow-up pieces in international outlets including The Guardian, Business Insider, NBC, and The New York Times, along with a truck load of think pieces, of which I thought this one by US attorney Ken White, and this piece in tech newsletter Platformer were particularly insightful and well considered.

Hamish McKenzie (one of the Substack founders), responded here, in part saying (my emphasis) “I just want to make it clear that we don’t like Nazis either—we wish no-one held those views. But some people do hold those and other extreme views. Given that, we don't think that censorship (including through demonetizing publications) makes the problem go away—in fact, it makes it worse.” McKenzie’s note won’t load for me, and if you have the same problem, you can see a copy of it on the Internet Archive here.

I disagree with this view, and in short, I’m not interested in using the publishing platform of a company that has no qualms about making money from hate speech, so I’m moving both newsletters. Likewise I’ll be cancelling any paid subscriptions I have there and will sort out alternative ways to pay the authors concerned. Regulars will know I’m a firm believer in walking the talk, and with over 18,000 subscribers across the two newsletters (thank you every one of you!), it was time to walk.

While it is true that hate speech can unfortunately be found on many publishing platforms, to my knowledge Substack is the only mainstream platform that has explicitly said they will host “Nazi views,” (their words) and earn money from such material. If Substack want to run a Nazi bar (the link goes not to a photo of a Nazi bar but to another excellent piece on this whole issue, by content moderation expert Mike Masnick), that’s their business—I’ll just drink elsewhere. Take my word for it, I’ve seriously considered taking drinking up again through all this!

To my mind, it doesn’t matter if there are six, six hundred, or six thousand such publications—Substack has made it clear they will host how ever many such newsletters appear and earn revenue from them. So I’m done.

Takes a breath.

With that off my chest, what does the move mean for you dear Travelfish newsletter reader? As this newsletter is free, the transition will be near seamless. I’ll have an update next week, including perhaps a request for a few volunteers to assist with testing stuff, and keep you posted (yes, via Substack!) until the move is done and dusted. Couchfish is a more complicated move as there is a paid version, but I’ll address what will be happening there in a special Couchfish explainathon newsletter later this week.

Lastly, as regular readers will know, I often link to interesting pieces that are published via Substack, and I have no plans to stop doing this. There is plenty of excellent writing there and I respect that this is an individual choice for each and every writer/publisher.

My apologies for all this—I assume you receive this newsletter because you’re interested in Southeast Asia, so, with no further ado, let’s get onto that. Thank you for your patience.

The featured piece this week is a light one—some reading tips from Southeast Asia expert Erin Cook. How the hell Erin found the time to read 92 books in 2023 is absolutely beyond me. Pics this week are a couple of snaps from our holiday in Thailand.

Cheers and best for 2024

Stuart

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

Travel writer in training

Slowing down on Thailand’s Ko Kut. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• A Year In Reading: From The Back Streets Of Tondo To The Tense Family Tables Of Washington In The 60s from Dari Mulut Ke Mulut

📚 What I’m reading

• Station Eleven by Emily St. John Mandel

🇲🇲 Burma

• Escape From Laukkai: A Migrant’s Story from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• Domestic Flights In Myanmar Reduced As Junta Searches For Jet Fuel from RFA

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Reflections On Journalism In Cambodia For 2023 from Danielle Keeton-Olsen

• Tensions Rising As Boeng Tamok Lake Redistributed, Filled With Sand from Danielle Keeton-Olsen

• Reporting Massive Human Rights Abuses Behind A Façade from Columbia Journalism Review (2016)

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Cultural Tourism As A Driving Force Of Social Sustainability from Sustain Impact Tourism

• Short Hops And Economy Class: Five Expert Tips On How To Reduce Your Emissions On Holiday from The Guardian

• Flying Hurts The Planet But It’s Vital For Island Tourism. Is There A Greener Way? from The Guardian

• From Reuters To The New York Times, Big Oil Pays “Most Trusted Media Brands” To Push Greenwashing from Journalism.co.uk

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Immigration Launches Five-Year Multiple Entry Visas For Tourism from Antara

• Bali Bets On Wellness Experiences And Sustainable Dining To Spur Tourism Recovery from SCMP ($)

• ‘Really, Really Weak’: Experts Attack Claim That Indonesia Site Is ‘World’s Oldest Building’ from The Guardian

• The Land Of Iron from The Lombok Diaries

🇱🇦 Laos

• Ancient Temple In Bolikhamxay Set To Attain National Heritage Status from The Laotian Times

• Impacts Of Covid-19 On Tourism In The Lao PDR : Market Insights And Trends from World Bank

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Malaysia Eases Rules For Retirement Residency Visa But Piecemeal Announcement Has Wealthy Foreigners Holding Off from CNA

• Wrapping Up 2023 And Looking Forward To 2024 from Reef Check Malaysia (LinkedIn)

• ‘I Feel Trapped’: Scores Of Underage Rohingya Girls Forced Into Abusive Marriages In Malaysia from AP

• On The Cat Walk: How To Follow In A Tiger’s Footsteps In The Forests Of Malaysia from The Guardian

🇸🇬 Singapore

• What’s Life On The Open Road For Two Singaporean Aunties? from Rice Media

• Singapore’s ‘Ice Cream Uncles’ Are Melting Away Thanks To Old Age And Red Tape: ‘It’s Just The Way It Is’ from SCMP ($)

• Epok Epok Sardine from Singapore Noodles ($)

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Island Wrap #71: Welcome To 2024 In Coastal Thailand from Thai Island Quest

• A Dying Anticorruption Crusader Considers His Life’s Own Misdeeds from The New York Times ($)

• T.I.C.D.: Songkhla Lake Region (Part II: Mueang Songkhla & Sathing Phra Isthmus) from Thai Island Quest ($)

• Thailand To Recover ‘Golden Boy,’ But Over 100 Stolen Artifacts Remain Abroad from RFA

• In Search Of Thailand’s Tasty Hideouts That The Locals Would Rather Keep Secret from CNT

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Dreaming Of High-Speed Rail from Vietnam Weekly

• Vintage French Book Illustrations Depict A Quaint Indochina In 1903 from Saigoneer

• Camping On Trong Veo Stream from Vietnam Coracle

• The Unexpected Twist In Vietnam’s Renewable Energy Saga from Fulcrum

• Floating Rice, Lục Bình Baskets And Dried Fish: How WWF-Viet Nam Is Helping Save The Mekong Delta from Saigoneer

Random other stuff

• The Biggest Travel Trends For 2024, As Predicted By Industry Insiders from RoadBook

• The Thought-Leaders To Follow In 2024 from Future of Tourism (LinkedIn)

• #186 – Slow Travel With Stuart McDonald from Talk Travel Asia (Podcast)

• Reflections On A Road Well Travelled from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• The Darkest Nights Of Travel from TravelHood

• Travel Is Awesome, But How Can We Experience Real Awe? from Poste Restante

Mangrove time

“Up the river without a paddle” could be the theme to this edition of the newsletter, but it is also my kind of holiday. At the glorious Baan Makok on Ko Kut. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

Good travels!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

This week I’m leading with an interesting Al Jazeera piece on a slice of Malaysian (then Malaya) history from not that long ago. Well worth a read.

Over on Couchfish, I had two pieces related to my beach shack out west, one about how I found it, and what I’m trying to do with it, then I wrapped up the year for Couchfish—as I am today with the Travelfish Newsletter. Both will be back in your inbox in early January.

Also in the final Couchfish edition, I announced a 50% off forever deal on paid Couchfish subscriptions, so if you’re keen on a present for yourself (or someone else!) you can sign up or upgrade your account here.

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

We’re on holidays through most of December and are in Bangkok at the moment. The photos this week are a couple of first impressions—always great to return to this joint!

Best wishes to all for the remainder of this year, and seeya in 2024!

Cheers

Stuart

When in Bangkok …

Taking a quick spin around Bangkok’s Democracy Monument. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• No Justice: 75 Years After A British Massacre In Colonial Malaya from Al Jazeera

📚 What I’m reading

• Six Days: How The 1967 War Shaped The Middle East by Jeremy Bowen

🇲🇲 Burma

• Poisoning The Well: The Death Of The Bilin River from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• Myanmar Junta Under Pressure As Insurgents Gain Ground from France 24 (Video)

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Decline In Fish Stocks May Affect Food Supply from The Khmer Times

• Far-Reaching Threats A Worry For Cambodian-American Journalist from VOA

• The Intractable Problem Of Land Grabbing In Cambodia from Equal Times

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Southeast Asia Eyes Seafood Export Bounty As Sustainability Falls By The Wayside from SCMP ($)

• Climate Action: The Time For Incrementalism Is Over from Protecting The Future

• Kusu Island Fully Powered By Solar Energy, With Pulau Hantu To Follow Suit from The Straits Times

• Green Colonialism from Noema

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Visiting Volcanoes Big Business In Indonesia But Safety In Spotlight After Several Eruptions Including Marapi from CNA

• The Best Light Show In Indonesia from This Is Southeast Asia

• Indonesian Queer Histories As Solace And Resistance from New Mandala

• Exposed: The Links Between Indonesia’s Deforestation And Xinjiang from Al Jazeera

🇱🇦 Laos

• Good Morning Vientiane: How The Laos Capital Is Quietly Brewing A Coffee Revolution from Adventure

• Laos Targets Global Audience For ‘Visit Laos Year 2024’ from The Laotian Times

• Xaysomboun Greenlights Tourism Project For Pha Ka Tai Hill from The Laotian Times

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Taking The Boat To Historical Fort Margherita from Borneo Bulletin

• What You Need To Know About Malaysia’s Digital Arrival Card from CNA

🇸🇬 Singapore

• Peace Centre: A Doomed Mall’s Last Hurrah from Rice Media

• The Hawker Spots Singaporeans Think Deserve More Love from Rice Media

• A Thosai Deep-Dive: Part I from Singapore Noodles

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Visiting Thailand Solo: A Safety Guide For Female Travelers from I Am Koh Chang

• ‘Carmageddon’ In Phuket, Cleaning Up Loi Krathong, Remembering Tak Bai, And More from Thai Island Quest

• Tourism Vs Conservation: The Controversial Cable Car Plan Dividing Thailand from Thai PBS

• Is Thailand’s Favourite Fish On Its Way Out? How Insatiable Appetites Put ‘Pla Tu’ Mini-Mackerel In Peril from SCMP ($)

• Wai Chaek Beach from I Am Koh Chang

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Hẻm Gems: Hủ Tíu Mực Ông Già's Squid Game Is To Die For from Saigoneer

• PM Wants New International Airport Built In Red River Delta from VNExpress

• My Favorite Food Is Vietnamese Spring Rolls from Brent And Michael Are Going Places

Random other stuff

• The Case For Slow Travel And Slow Reading In A Fast-Paced Society from Those Who Wander

• Fewer Than 10 Tourists A Day: Welcome To Timor-Leste from Adventure

• What Is Dark Tourism? from The Week

• What Makes A Trip Memorable: Your Destination Or Your Travel Companion? from The Washington Post ($)

• U.K. Ad Watchdog Bans 3 Airline Ads Over ‘Greenwashing’ Claims from Skift

Always skip the ABF.

Khao soi for two in the bowels of Bangkok’s Chinatown. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

See you next year!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

Sorry, it has been a bit between emails!

This week I have three picks on Thailand’s Ko Pha Ngan—a great choice for your Christmas holidays. For each pick, I’ve looked up some prices on our partner Agoda, and listed them along with—as always—the direct contact details for each place. That way you can compare and figure out what works for you. Just a disclaimer here, Agoda is a Travelfish partner, so if you book a room through them a commission may be payable to us.

If none of the following three appeal, Agoda lists a bazillion more places to stay on Ko Pha Ngan.

Cheers

Stuart

Three cool spots to stay on Ko Pha Ngan this December

Backpackers: Golden Beach Resort

Ko Pha Ngan is one of those Thai islands where if you’re after the simplest and cheapest shack you can find, then you’re on the right island. Set towards the end of Baan Kai Beach, Golden Beach Resort has been in the business of cheap shacks for thirty plus years, so they must be doing something right. Don’t arrive expecting any mod-cons whatsoever, and your hut may not have a single straight edge in it, but once you’re on your deck above the boulders watching sunset, will it matter? No.

In the week before Christmas, Agoda has sea view rooms from 900 baht, though these are not the beach front rooms—you may need to shift dates around to find those.

Golden Beach Resort: Baan Kai, Ko Pha Ngan. T: (077) 377 912.

Check rates at Golden Beach

For flashpackers: Longtail Beach Resort

Set at the southern end of Thong Nai Pan Yai on Ko Pha Ngan’s east coast, this is one of a clutch of places on this bit of the beach that won’t cost you the earth, but likewise offer you more trimmings and comfort than some of the old school backpacker shacks on Ko Pha Ngan. If the Full Moon Party is your thing, Haad Rin is only a longtail run away—but once you settle in here you may well find yourself not bothering with anything—or anywhere—else.

For the week before Christmas, Agoda has bungalows starting at 1,750 baht all in, with family bungalows from 2,750 baht. Want to compare these to their direct rates? You can contact them via the details below.

Long Tail Beach Resort: Thong Nai Pan Yai, Ko Pha Ngan. https://www.longtailbeachresort.com/

Check rates at Longtail

Family favourite: Salad Hut Resort

Set on Haad Salad on Ko Pha Ngan’s northwest coast, Salad Hut is a long-running personal favourite—even back when it was one of only two places to stay on the bay! The resort has grown up in the decades since, but it remains true to its roots—family-run and retaining some solid Thai hospitality. Rooms are in a modern classic Thai style and there’s a pool—not the flashest by any standard, but it is wet—and by the sand.

You can pay plenty more for places with more trimmings—and newer rooms—but we like the charm and the shady, well-tended grounds here. It’s a popular place—as is all of Haad Salad—and you might struggle for a room close to Xmas, but on Agoda in earlier December they are garden rooms from around 3,500 baht and family rooms for just shy of 5,000 baht. Contact them direct for comparison rates—and perhaps more availability.

Salad Hut Resort: Haad Salad, Ko Pha Ngan. https://www.saladhut.com/

Check rates at Salad Hut

Past editions

If this sort of email is not your thing, please note, you can unsubscribe from this without unsubscribing from the main Travelfish newsletter. They are separate newsletters under the same umbrella, so it isn’t an either/or affair. You can manage what you receive from me here.

As always, suggestions are both welcome and appreciated. Many thanks to those who have sent me their favourites—they’ve been filed away.

Until next Wednesday then.

Safe and fun travels

Stuart

This week I’m leading with a piece out of Condé Nast Traveler (yeah I know), but I thought it was a good read and it taught me two new words—solastalgia and fernweh—so there you go, CNT isn’t a complete waste of space.

Also this week gone The United States’ most famous war criminal finally kicked the bucket—don’t let the door hit you on the way out dude. It seemed fitting to put Rolling Stone’s good riddance post in the Cambodia section below, but it could just as easily have gone in Indonesia or Laos—or any number of other countries for that matter. Why is it the worst of humanity last so goddam long?

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

Over on Couchfish I have two new pieces—War Stories (nothing to do with aforementioned dead dude), and Bingin Time—both are free to read for all.

In other news, a few weeks ago a reader got in touch asking how on earth I have the time to read all the stuff I stick in this newsletter. Their query prompted me to spruce up one of the tools I use to find news related to the region, so if you’d prefer to be getting this newsletter every day—hopefully not, as there is no way I’m writing it every day—the Southeast Asia Travel News page I made may be of interest. It updates through the day pulling headlines from over 100 outlets, every few hours, and surfaces news that might be of interest to travellers. It is a bit rough around the edges, but it does work—add it to your bookmarks!

As I have no photos of solastalgia and fernweh, I’m instead running with some Thai food pics as I head there this Saturday and plan to eat everything. Both pics are by David Luekens, as he takes better food pics, and I’m always stuffing face when I should be taking pics.

Cheers

Stuart

Skip the ABF

Khanom Jeen Pa Khiao on Ko Samui. Photo: David Luekens.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• There’s A Word For How We’re Feeling As Travelers—and This Is It from CNT

📚 What I’m reading

• Six Days: How The 1967 War Shaped The Middle East by Jeremy Bowen

🇲🇲 Burma

• Travel Risk Warning For Parts Of Myanmar from Bangkok Post

• Back To The Dark Ages: Development Interrupted In Ayeyarwady from Frontier Myanmar ($)

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Henry Kissinger, War Criminal Beloved By America’s Ruling Class, Finally Dies from Rolling Stone

• The Mekong Is Slowly Dying. From The BBC

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• An Update From The Wilderness from NE Where

• Climate Adaptation And Tourism: A Closer Link Than We Might Think? from SEADS

• COP28 Sucks. Pay Attention Anyway. from HEATED

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• 11 Climbers Killed After Indonesia Volcano Erupts, Spewing Ash 3km Into Sky from SCMP ($)

• ‘A Bus Is Open To Everyone Regardless Of Class’: Riding The World’s Biggest Network from The Guardian

• Revenge Of The Jungle – Indonesia’s New Capital Unloved And Unfunded from Michael West Media

🇱🇦 Laos

• Laos Requires Cell Phone Registration By Mid-December from RFA

• Lazy Confluence In Laos from One Hundred Years Of Family Food Memories

• The Invisible Killer Haunting Laos 50 Years After The Vietnam War from The Telegraph ($)

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Foreigners Entering Malaysia Required To Submit Digital Arrival Cards From December from CNA

• Malaysian State’s Gay ‘Rehab’ Centre Plan ‘Amounts To Torture’, LGBTQ Activists Say from SCMP ($)

🇸🇬 Singapore

• Covid-19 Cases In S’pore Double, MOH Advises Public To Stay Vigilant from The Straits Times ($)

• A “Long Island” For Our Sunny Island By The Sea? from We, The Citizens

🇹🇭 Thailand

• T.I.C.D.: Intro To The Deep Southern Gulf Of Thailand from Thai Island Quest ($)

• History Fades As Rising Sea Levels Slowly Destroy Thailand’s Temple Murals from The Guardian

• Frenchman’s Body Found At Koh Samui Waterfall from Bangkok Post

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• A Voice For The Voiceless: Thich Tue Sy And His Struggle For Religious Freedom In Postwar Vietnam from The Vietnamese

• Foreign Tourists Complain About Trash, Overcrowding In Ha Long Bay from VNExpress

• Inside The Bình Thạnh Depot Where Retro Military Knick-Knacks Live from Saigoneer

• Traversing Ha Giang Loop: A Photographic Journey from VNExpress

Random other stuff

• Reflections On A Hectic Year Of Travel In South East Asia And Beyond, With Vincent Vichit-Vadakan from The South East Asia Travel Show

• Around SE Asia In 80 Days from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• What We Can Learn From The Ancient Art Of Wayfinding from The BBC

• Travel Companies Warned To Expect Scrutiny Of ‘Green Claims’ from Travel Weekly

• How Is Influencer Marketing Transforming The Tourism Industry? from Roadbook

• New Guidebook Draws On Real-World Experiences For Running Private Nature Reserves from Mongabay

Damn.

Grazing at Bao Pradit, Mukdahan. Photo: David Luekens.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

Saigoneer is a great site for getting both my stomach rumbling and feet itching and this week’s read is a great piece they have on that Hội An fave, Cao Lầu. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

Over on Couchfish I recounted a tale from a few years ago about an unusual dinner I had here in Bali and dove-tailed it with some thoughts on beach erosion. I’ve missed the Wednesday Deals emails over the last few weeks—will be back this week.

In other news, you may have seen headlines flying about today about a subway (or something) for Bali. My mate James has a good wrap on this on his Bali Railway Concept Map—don’t hold your breath on this one!

The pics this week are of, you guessed, it, Cao Lầu.

Cheers

Stuart

Street side Cao Lầu

Chatting motorbike routes with M over a fast bowl. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• Meet The Hội An Family Making Cao Lầu Noodles From Scratch from Saigoneer

📚 What I’m reading

• Six Days: How The 1967 War Shaped The Middle East by Jeremy Bowen

🇲🇲 Burma

• Conservation Breakdown Imperils Myanmar’s Irrawaddy Dolphins from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• Rebel Offensive In Myanmar Drives Junta Into Retreat from Asia Sentinal

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Airbnb Party Pads Near Phnom Penh from Move To Cambodia

• Cambodian Rock Via LA from Bangkok Post

• Children Made These Bricks, Says Licadho from Dari Mulut Ke Mulut ($)

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• The Cruise Paradox: Cruising Isn’t As Easy As Labeling It ‘Good’ Or ‘Bad’ from Adventure

• Can UK’s ‘Jet Zero’ Hopes Take Off With A Plane Fuelled By Used Cooking Oil? from The Guardian

• Sustainability Advocate On A Mission To Tell Simple, Engaging Stories Of Complex Climate Issues from The Straits Times ($)

• How To Rethink Tourism And Aviation For A Greener Future from Sustainability In The Air

• Twelve Billionaires’ Climate Emissions Outpollute 2.1m Homes, Analysis Finds from The Guardian

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• The Land Moves West from New Mandala

• Indonesia Welcomes Birth Of Critically Endangered Sumatran Rhino from SCMP ($)

• Killings Of Bornean Orangutans Could Lead To Their Extinction from MongaBay

🇱🇦 Laos

• Laos Unleashed from The Financial Times ($)

• A Luang Prabang Special from Journeys And Jottings

• Launch Of Visit Laos Year 2024 Promises Cultural, Natural, Historical Adventures from The Laotian Times

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Tiger Stripes: Malaysia’s Censors Have ‘Removed The Essence’ Of My Film, Says Director from The Guardian

• Where To Eat In Kuala Lumpur, The Asian Capital Famed For Its Contrasting Culinary Legacies from National Geographic

🇸🇬 Singapore

• An Insider Guide To Singapore’s Regional Fine Dining Scene from The Financial Times ($)

• Kaya Toast Set from Singapore Noodles

• Changi Airport Trialling AI To Improve Security Screening For Carry-On Luggage from The Straits Times ($)

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Koh Khan 2023 from I Am Koh Chang

• Tak Bai – An Unhealed Deep Scar In Patani from Prachatai

• An Impressive, Sparsely Developed Cape In Thailand’s Deep South from Thai Island Quest ($)

• Tours To Tham Luang Cave Rescue Chamber To Begin from Bangkok Post

• The 10 Best Ways To Explore Thailand In 2024 from The Telegraph ($)

• Thai Business Loves Carbon Credits, But Are They Harming The Climate And Grassroots People? from Thai PBS

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Turning The Tide: Vietnam’s War Against Plastic Waste from Fulcrum

• Three Days Away: Đà Lạt Pt.4 from Around The World In 80 Scrapes ($)

• The $12.5 Billion Heist from Vietnam Weekly ($)

• Hanoi Train Street Guide: Where To Visit The Open Sections from Nomadic Notes

• Ha Long Bay’s Lament: Trading Natural Splendor For Short-Sighted Gains from The Vietnamese

Random other stuff

• AI’s Spicy-Mayo Problem from The Atlantic ($)

Not just a street dish

Cindy picked up a good bowl in a fancier setting as well. Photo: Cindy Fan.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

This week I’m leading with an interesting wrap on hostels by backpacker academic Michael O’Regan. I have to say, after staying at twenty different hostels across four weeks in Singapore a few years ago, I swore I’d never stay in another, but O’Regan’s piece had me almost missing them. If you’re a hostel fan, give the story a read.

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

Over on Couchfish I had two pieces last week—one looking at temples and higher powers in Pemuteran, and another thinking about just what “local” means. They’re both free to read.

The pics this week are of hostels and love.

Cheers

Stuart

Love is a beautiful thing

Everything is fine until people start having sex above you. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• Youth Hostels Face Tough Times—But They Are Perfect For Authentic, Spontaneous Experiences from Adventure

📚 What I’m reading

• Six Days: How The 1967 War Shaped The Middle East by Jeremy Bowen

🇲🇲 Burma

• Interview: Myanmar Insurgent Groups Key To Forest And Climate Protection from The Third Pole

• ‘We Can’t Choose What We Eat’: Malnutrition Wracks Myanmar from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• Northern Shan State Fighting Displaces Almost 50,000 Civilians: UN from Frontier Myanmar ($)

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• China’s Belt And Road-Funded Airport Launches In Cambodia To Serve Tourists Heading To Angkor Wat from SCMP ($)

• Fears Asia’s Mekong River Is In Crisis from BBC (Video)

• UNESCO Under Fire For Failing To Prevent Evictions At Angkor Wat Temple Site from The Guardian

• For Renewable Energy, Cambodia Risks ‘Final Frontier’ Virachey National Park from Southeast Asia Globe

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Hoi An, Hue Flood Amid Heavy Rains, Boats Replace Cars from VietnamExpress

• The Devastating Trail Supertrawlers Leave Behind from Blue Planet Society

• Denmark Is Proposing A ‘Green Tax’ On All Flights from The Washington Post ($)

• The Instagram Wellness Influencers Spreading Climate Misinformation from Heated

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Carbon Financing In Action: Restoring Peatlands In Indonesia from McKinsey & Company

• Plunging Popularity Of Bahasa Among Australian Students Could Hurt Future Ties With Indonesia from The Straits Times ($)

• The Spice Islands from The Lombok Diaries

🇱🇦 Laos

• China Remains Top Investor In Laos, Minister Reveals from The Laotian Times

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• A Murder Case Reawakens In Malaysia from Asia Sentinel

• Malaysia’s Penang Hopes To Hook Chinese Medical Tourists With Healing Holidays from SCMP ($)

🇸🇬 Singapore

• Singapore *Can* Be Cheap from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• Feeding The Future from AP

• Salted Egg-Stuffed Squid from Singapore Noodles ($)

🇹🇭 Thailand

• I Can’t Help But Feel Like Thailand Just Came Very Close To Doing Something Bonkers? from Dari Mulut Ke Mulut

• ‘Lost Its Soul’: Campaigners Decry Renovation Of Thailand’s Iconic ‘Robot Building’ from CNN

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Controversial Project In Vietnam Threatens Paradise Of Popular Tourist Destination Ha Long Bay from The Telegraph ($)

• Let Foreigners Buy Resort Property, Says Developer from VietnamExpress

• Vietnam’s Waste Sorting Plan Goes Unsupported from VietnamExpress

• Three Days Away: Đà Lạt Pt.3 from Around The World In 80 Scrapes ($)

• Paving Over Paradise from Vietnam Weekly

Random other stuff

• The Secret Decision-Making Behind ‘Best-Of’ Travel Lists – And Why They Always Seem To Get It Wrong from The Independent

• A Two-Hour Walking Tour With ChatGPT: ‘I’d Not Suggest That To My Worst Enemy’ from The Guardian

• Fake Reviews Are Rampant Online. Can A Crackdown End Them? from The New York Times ($)

• At Home With Asia’s Shopping Influencers from Rest Of World

• Who Has The Best International Health Insurance: Safetywing Or Genki — Or Someone Else Entirely? from Brent and Michael Are Going Places

• Keeping Stuff Safe On The Road: You’re Probably Doing It All Wrong from Talking Travel Writing ($)

No the lighting is not “romantic”

Everything is fine until people start having sex right beside your head. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

This week I’m leading with an old—though not as old as the dinosaurs—piece on the end of the world. With all this chit chat about global warming, madness and chaos, it’s best not to forget about some giant rock just bangin’ into us. Yes, I am the good news channel.

This week’s newsletter is supported by Ling—think of it as a new way to learn a language without picking up phrases like how to tell your neighbour there are a million cats in your house. Their coverage includes a bunch of Southeast Asian languages which I’ve outlined further down, or just click on the monkey above and find out for yourself—they’ve got both iOS and Android apps available—and a free trial.

Over on Couchfish I’ve got a piece on influencers—or should I say, influenzers—some people, I tell ya.

The pics this week are of crater lakes in the region—though they’re volcanic craters, not meteor ones.

Cheers

Stuart

Crater lakes are fun

Kids goofing off at Yak Lom in northeast Cambodia. Photo: Nicky Sullivan.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• The Day The Dinosaurs Died from The New Yorker ($)

📚 What I’m reading

• Doppelganger by Naomi Klein

🇲🇲 Burma

• A Military Jet Crashes In Eastern Myanmar, Ethnic Resistance Groups Claim They Shot It Down from The Laotian Times

• Rebels Are Notching Key Wins Against The Military Junta In Myanmar from The New York Times ($)

• ‘1,000 Days Of Revolutionary Light’: Mobilising The Public In Sagaing from Frontier Myanmar ($)

One of the best way to get a little more out of your trip is to learn a bit of the language, and Ling helps you learn vocabulary and phrases to form meaningful relationships with people you meet along the way.

Think of it as a bit like Duolingo, but without phrases like “There are one million cats in my house,” and best of all, Ling offer a bunch of Southeast Asian languages including:

Indonesian, Khmer, Lao, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese

With apps for both iOS and Android, it couldn’t be easier to grab a 7-day free trial and start learning today.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Will Cambodia’s Private Debt Become National Debt? from The Diplomat

• A Long Beach-Born Painter Captures The Surrealism Of The Cambodian American Experience from The Los Angeles Times

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• It’s Not Easy Being Green from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• The World Has Lost 14% Of Its Coral Reefs Since 2009. Investing In A Blue Economy Gives Us A Shot At Saving The Rest from World Economic Forum

• ‘Bluewashing’: How Ecotourism Can Be Used Against Indigenous Communities from The Conversation

• Gone Wild: Is Wildlife Tourism Out Of Control? from Geographical

• How Is Scuba Diving Supporting Regenerative Travel? from RoadBook

• “Why Do We Take A Holiday From Our Good, Green Habits When We Travel?” from The Standard

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• In Borneo, The ‘Power Of Mama’ Fight Indonesia’s Wildfires With All-Woman Crew from Mongabay

• Egg-Laying Mammal Last Recorded In 1961 Waddles Its Way Back Into View In Rediscovery On Indonesia’s Rugged Cyclops Mountains from Re:Wild

🇱🇦 Laos

• Migration Throws Laos’ Communist Government A Lifeline from RFA

• At This Oasis In Laos, You Get Your Own Plunge Pool And Butterflies from Australian Financial Review ($)

• ‘Cheaper Than Beer’: Laos Meth Prices Plummet As Myanmar Chaos Fuels Trade from Aljazeera

• Notes On Vang Vieng: Trains And Tubing In Laos from Nomadic Notes

Yes, it’s the language monkey again.

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Malaysian Tourism - What Are We Trying To Sell To Foreign Tourists? from BFM (Audio)

• Shunned By Domestic Visitors, Tourism Group Warns Langkawi Set To Become ‘Ghost Town’ Once Again from The Malay Mail

• Penang’s Bridges Are Passages To Another World from This Is Southeast Asia

🇸🇬 Singapore

• A Changing Of The Guard For Singapore (Eventually) from Dari Mulut Ke Mulut ($)

• Singaporeans Speak On The Joy Of Deepavali from Rice Media

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Phuket Has Become A Luxurious New Playground For Rich Russians Fleeing Vladimir Putin’s War, But Some Locals Aren’t Happy from ABC

• T.I.C.D.: Mu Ko Phuket (Part II: Ko Racha & Other Outlying Islands) from Thai Island Quest ($)

• Who Really Owns A River? from The Asia Foundation

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Deadly Buses Under The Microscope from Vietnam Weekly

• Poor Infrastructure, Services Hinder Tourism Growth In Northern Mountain Province from VietnamExpress

• Vietnam’s Youth Join Chinese Trend Of ‘Lying Flat’ As Pay Stagnates Amid Booming Economy from SCMP ($)

• Three Days Away: Đà Lạt Pt.2 from Around The World In 80 Scrapes ($)

Random other stuff

• “Tourists Are Rethinking Their Relationship With Earth” from The BBC

• B Impact Assessment As A Sustainable Tool: Analysis Of The Certification Model from Research Gate

• Beyond Barriers: The Man Making Luxury Hotels Wheelchair-Accessible from CNT

• Has Tourism Failed The Camels Which Made Pushkar Camel Fair A Globally Recognised Tourist Event? from Memsahib In India

• Is Luddite Travel A Thing Now? The Next Iteration Of Unplugged Travel And Off-Grid Weekends Is Here from Adventure

• Forget The Future: This Is The State Of Travel Writing Today from Talking Travel Writing

Crater lakes are big

Meet Sumatra’s Lake Toba. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

This newsletter is coming to you from Pemuteran in West Bali where I’m diving with my daughter and some friends for a few days. Lyla and I decided to ride here by motorbike from the south—in theory about a three and a bit hour ride (assuming Bali’s bonkers traffic is slightly less bonkers)—but luckily for Bali, and unluckily for us, Bali’s drought decided to break the day of our ride, which turned out to be four and a half hours, with three and a half of said hours in the rain.

Fun times! Did we have raincoats? Hell no. Upside, the diving has been fantastic and Pemuteran and Menjangan Island’s waters are the cleanest I think I’ve ever seen them—really pristine. Let’s hope that holds out once the rains really get going—no doubt on Wednesday when we ride home.

The pics this week are from both the ride and why it was worth it.

Cheers

Stuart

Fun times

Just three hours of this to go. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• Significant Travel Trends For Autumn/Winter 2023 from Roadbook

📚 What I’m reading

• Doppelganger by Naomi Klein

🇲🇲 Burma

• ‘Hard To Breathe’: Myanmar Communities Forced To Live Among World’s Trash from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• 1,000 Days On In Myanmar, Are Things Changing? from Dari Mulut Ke Mulut

If you’re looking for relatively affordable travel insurance for your travels in Southeast Asia, take a look at SafetyWing. Their standard package (excluding travel within the US) for four weeks of coverage costs (according to traveller age):
18 to 39 from US$45
40 to 49 from $74
50 to 59 from $116; and
60 to 69 from $157
For more information, details on their policies and optional add-ons, please refer to the SafetyWing website.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Cambodia’s New Cabinet Is Steeped In Nepotism from RFA

• A Sanctuary For Elephants And Forests In Cambodia from Mongabay

• Hydropower Dams Threaten Crucial Mekong Supply Chains, WWF Says from The Diplomat

• Battambang Gastronomy Delights Unesco Creative Cities Network – First Cambodian City To Join List from Cambojanews

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Cruise Ships Polluting UK Coast As They Ignore Greener Power Options from The Guardian

• Editorial: How To Not Fall Prey To Greenwashing By Travel Companies from TravelAge West

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Rabies Is Spreading In Southeast Asia, Fuelled By Inequality And Neglect from Eco-Business

• A Day On The Train: Connecting Central Java (2021) from Primagung Dary Riliananda

🇱🇦 Laos

• Rebuilding Lives: Mrs On’s Story Of Resilience In Laos from MAG International

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Malaysia Issues ‘Kill Switch’ Order To Cut Controversial Concerts from The Guardian

🇸🇬 Singapore

• Of Prison Blocks And Condos from New Mandala

• Inside The Mysterious Morning Exercise Rituals Of Bishan Park’s Elderly Singaporeans from Rice Media

• Tradition In A Backpack from This Is Southeast Asia

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Send Thailand’s Holy Bronze Men Home from Art Review

• Inside Thailand’s Tractor Races from VICE (Video)

• Many Islands Open For High Season, New Push For Kra Isthmus ‘land Bridge’, Opposition To Fisheries Deregulation, And More from Thai Island Quest

• Lèse-Majesté Verdicts Reach 100 In Less Than Two Years from Prachatai

• Young Thai Entrepreneurs Are Turning Their Ancestral Homes Into Chic Hotels And Restaurants from T&L

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Trash-Infested Beach Prompts Authorities To Take Action In South-Central Vietnam from Tuoi Tre News

• Tan Hoa: Rising From Rural Hardship To Tourist Excellence from VietnamExpress

• Hẻm Gems: It's Impossible To Resist Bún Riêu Cô Yến's Crispy Fried Tofu from Saigoneer

• Three Days Away: Đà Lạt Pt.1 from Around The World In 80 Scrapes ($)

• Driver By Day, Tiktok Star By Night: The Vietnamese Gig Worker Living A Double Life from Rest Of World

Random other stuff

• 5 Big Travel Lessons And One ‘Mistake’ From 50 Years Of Lonely Planet from The Washington Post ($)

• We’ve Used Showers For Centuries. Why Can’t Hotels Make Them Easier? from The Wall Street Journal ($)

• How Sober Travellers And Alcohol-Free Travel Companies Are Driving A New Tourism Trend As People Look For Richer Experiences Unclouded By Booze from SCMP ($)

• It’s Time To Limit How Often We Can Travel Abroad – ‘Carbon Passports’ May Be The Answer from The Conversation

• The New Luxury Vacation: Being Dumped In The Middle Of Nowhere from The New Yorker ($)

• Using Social Media For Your Holiday ‘Inspo’ Can Be Risky And Even Dangerous – Here’s Why from The Conversation

• For China’s Jobless Young People, Hostels Are The Place To Be from The New York Times ($)

• Why Travel Bucket Lists Aren’t All They’re Cracked Up To Be from AFAR

• The Future Of Tourism: Bridging The Labor Gap, Enhancing Customer Experience from McKinsey & Company

No filter required

Those splotches are fish—not trash. What a refreshing change. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

The other day I was reading an academic paper in prep for my dissertation at uni—due in a mere ten months. The paper was on about how destinations often become “prisoners” of their own images—often very old images—which are pushed in travel guides but don’t reflect well on what the place is today. The paper focusses on a European town—Girona in Spain—but this certainly holds for many spots in Southeast Asia. Think Bangkok and Wat Arun, Vietnam and the Mekong Delta, Cambodia and Angkor, etcetera.

It got me thinking about the change that many (including myself) are arguing for in travel more generally, and yet here we are talking about it while pushing a wheelbarrow of 19th century cliched exotica. I’m not sure what to do with this knowledge to be honest—I don’t think I’d ever say don’t go see Wat Arun, but maybe I should. I’ve been thinking, how would one experience Wat Arun without seeing it. No, I’m not sure what that would entail either—it’s been a long day! What do you think?

Over on Couchfish I had just the one piece as I’ve been bogged down in a long piece on Laos that has soaked up more time than expected—it will be out very soon. In the meantime, I wrote about two cocks and a rock—it is free to read for all.

Last week I was a guest alongside Sarah Payne of UnTours on a Travel Massive live webinar asking the question How Does Slow Travel Impact Local Communities? If you missed out, you can watch the recording here—it was a great chat and I think Sarah and I could have gone all night talking this stuff through.

The pics this week, fittingly, are of Wat Arun.

Cheers

Stuart

Take a peak inside Wat Arun

A quiet moment for a different angle. Photo: David Luekens.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• ‘What’s The Point Of A Boat If There Are No Fish?’ from ABC

📚 What I’m reading

• Doppelganger by Naomi Klein

🇲🇲 Burma

• Ethnic Armed Groups Launch Attacks Across Northern Shan State from Frontier Myanmar ($)

If you’re looking for relatively affordable travel insurance for your travels in Southeast Asia, take a look at SafetyWing. Their standard package (excluding travel within the US) for four weeks of coverage costs (according to traveller age):
18 to 39 from US$45
40 to 49 from $74
50 to 59 from $116; and
60 to 69 from $157
For more information, details on their policies and optional add-ons, please refer to the SafetyWing website.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Cambodian Court Convicts Opposition Figures For Facebook Comments from RFA

• End To Mekong Delta Dispute? from Le Monde diplomatique

• Counting On Coal: A Visual Guide To Cambodia’s Big Bet On Fossil Fuel from SEAGlobe

• Three Days Away: Battambang Pt.4 from Around the World in 80 Scrapes ($)

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Carbon Offset Market Faces Chaos As African Mega-Project Collapses from Bloomberg ($)

• Should You Be Travelling In A Climate Crisis? from ABC (Podcast)

• Interview: Empowering Women In South And Southeast Asia With Finance For Solar from The Third Pole

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• From Pancake Seller To Indonesian Vice-President? Joko Widodo’s Son Aims For The Top from The Guardian

• Weekend Trip: Bunaken Is Indonesia’s Best-Kept Underwater Secret from The Straits Times ($)

🇱🇦 Laos

• The Finest Fifty Years Of Lao History Told Through Four Temples (And A Stupa) from Siam Rat Blog

• Lao Officials, Villagers In The Dark About Impacts Of New Railway from RFA

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Malaysia Moves To Tackle Rising Mental Health Crisis Among Children, Teens from SCMP ($)

• The Bad Urban Design Of Cyberjaya: Malaysia’s ‘Failed Silicon Valley’ from Future Southeast Asia

🇸🇬 Singapore

• ‘I Don’t Want To Sit At A Computer In A Small Box’: S’pore Aunties Travel The World In Camper Van from The Straits Times ($)

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Thailand’s Ruling Party Chooses A Shinawatra As New Leader from Reuters

• The Most Popular Streets In Bangkok That Are Totally Walkable from T&L

• The Raw Cool Of Bangkok from The Financial Times ($)

• Ancient Thailand’s Top 10 City Walls: An Archaeological Travel Guide from Paths Unwritten

• T.I.C.D.: Mu Ko Phuket (Part I: Main Island) from Thai Island Quest ($)

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Phú Quốc's Rapid Decline from Vietnam Weekly

• Man Spends 3 Decades Seeking Clean Water Sources For Southern Vietnam from Tuoi Tre News

• Saigon Street Vendors, Authorities Battle For Sanctified Ground from VNExpress

• Phú Quý Adventures from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• In Đà Nẵng, A Close-knit Surfing Community Rides The Waves from Saigoneer

Random other stuff

• How Hostels Are Being Redefined In The Post-Pandemic Era from National Geographic

• What Will Kill Us First: AI Vs Climate Change? From Talking Travel Writing ($)

• As Digital Nomads Flock To Lisbon, Portugal’s Youth Are Leaving In Droves from Bloomberg ($)

• Zoos Are The Opposite Of Educational: They Construct Fictions About Their Captives from The Guardian

• The Best Apps For Nature Lovers – From Identifying Birdsong To Tracking Lions from The Guardian

• Sergio Rodríguez Abitia: ‘Tourism Is Part Of The Extractive Economy That Everyone Complains About’ from El País

• Your Face May Soon Be Your Ticket. Not Everyone Is Smiling. from The New York Times ($)

Talking about old photos

Bangkok’s skyline has changed a bit since I took this one. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

Many moons ago, Sam and I were bumming around in Laos when a job offer came up and Sam had to head back to Bangkok quicksmart. I saw her off from Laos’ Luang Nam Tha airport, which back then was a bit of a hovel, and while I waited for her decidedly dinky plane to actually make it into the air, I cooled my sandal-clad heels with a large BeerLao at the shack that doubled as an airport bar. I can’t remember what it cost, but I do remember it was a lot, as here I am telling you about it 25 years later! When I queried the price (after drinking the beer of course) the staffer looked at me like I was an idiot and said “This is the airport man.” So I was a bit sad to not see Luang Nam Tha’s flat surface for a plane feature in James Clark’s list of defunct airports in Southeast Asia—the piece features as this week’s read of the week.

I’d also like to take a moment to highlight a newsletter I’ve been really enjoying of late. Titled Around the World in 80 Scrapes, it traces the travels and no-bullshit thoughts—often with an environmental tilt—of freelance journalist Kate Walker. I’ve mentioned the newsletter quite a bit in this newsletter over past months, but it was Walker’s recent three-part series on Battambang (part 1, 2 and 3, all paid-for reads) that really got my feet itching—far out I miss that joint. The newsletter has both free and paid flavours and if you have an interest in travel in Southeast Asia (which I hope you do as you’re receiving this newsletter!), at a minimum a free subscription is worth a go. Paid subs start at a little under $6 a month—about the same price as a big BeerLao at Luang Nam Tha Airport in 1998!

Join Around the World in 80 Scrapes

Over on Couchfish I had three pieces, one on Alfred Wallace and the merits of old guidebooks, another on yet more personal waterfall woes (an endless resource for me), and one on the (miss)treatment of animals in Southeast Asia. They are all free to read.

Later this week, I’m a guest alongside Sarah Payne of UnTours on a Travel Massive live webinar asking the question How Does Slow Travel Impact Local Communities? Registration is free! Hope to see you there.

Thanks to Clark, the theme this week is flat surfaces for a plane—if you’ve spent much time in the back-blocks of this part of the world, they are often little more than that.

Cheers

Stuart

Flash in the pan: President Airlines

President Airlines at Cambodia’s Banlung Airport. From memory this was Cambodia’s 76,875th airline. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• Defunct Airports of Southeast Asia from Nomadic Notes

📚 What I’m reading

• Doppelganger by Naomi Klein

🇲🇲 Burma

• Inle Lake’s Boat Festival’s Return Brings Joy And Sorrow from AFP

• As Global Calamities Pile Up, UNHCR Worries For The Rohingya from Dari Mulut Ke Mulut ($)

• Children In Myanmar: Caught In The Crossfire from Fulcrum

If you’re looking for relatively affordable travel insurance for your travels in Southeast Asia, take a look at SafetyWing. Their standard package (excluding travel within the US) for four weeks of coverage costs (according to traveller age):
18 to 39 from US$45
40 to 49 from $74
50 to 59 from $116; and
60 to 69 from $157
For more information, details on their policies and optional add-ons, please refer to the SafetyWing website.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• ‘I Am Afraid I Will Kill Myself, Like My Husband’: Spotlight On Loan Firms In Cambodia After Indigenous Suicides from The Guardian

• Cambodia Opens New Airport Near Angkor Wat Amid Low Tourism Numbers from RFA

• Famous Cambodian Elephant Sambo Dies After 9 Years Of Retirement from The Star

• Three Days Away: Battambang Pt.3 from Around the World in 80 Scrapes ($)

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Think That Your Plastic Is Being Recycled? Think Again. from MIT Technology Review

• The Great Cash-For-Carbon Hustle from The New Yorker ($)

• It’s Time To Close The Sustainable Energy Gaps In Asia And The Pacific from Mekong Eye

• I’m A Travel Writer Who Stopped Flying. Can I Keep It Up For The Climate? from Chatelaine

• Cambodia’s Tonlé Sap Lake Is Running Out Of Fish from Geographical

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Joko Widodo’s Son Can Run For Indonesian Vice-President After Controversial Court Ruling from The Guardian

• Bali Declares 14-Day Emergency In Face Of Escalating Drought Crisis from Coconuts Bali

🇱🇦 Laos

• Frankly, My Dear Laos from Around the World in 80 Scrapes

• Major Laos Dam Project Sparks Fears For Environment And Local Heritage from France24

• Laos Becomes Top Destination for Dispersed Tourism as Authentic Alternative to Overpopular Neighbors from The Laotian Times

• Laos-Vietnam Railway Project Officially Approved from The Laotian Times

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Peering Around River Bends from Mekong Review (free to read this week only)

• A Love Letter To Hawker Spaces from This Is South East Asia

• 3 Theories On The Origins Of Vaie People from Tribal Stories

🇸🇬 Singapore

• A Eulogy For Flash Coffee That’s Just As Miserable As Their Coffee from Rice Media

• Mianjin 面筋: Part I from Singapore Noodles

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Turning The Tide: How Bangkok Is Reclaiming Its Canals & Waterways from Thailand Now

• The Elephant I Was Riding Threw Me, Then Rolled Over Me Like A Steamroller. All My Bones Broke At Once from The Guardian

• Appeal Court Sentences Woman To 6 Years In Prison For Royal Defamation from Prachatai

• The Little Jazz Bar With Legendary Status In Chiang Mai, Thailand from Thrillist

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• HCMC’s Rising “Sleep Box” Trend Could Be Dangerous from VNExpress

• A Glimpse Into The Epic Underground Shows Of Vietnam Pro Wrestling from Saigoneer

• Trans-Northern Belt Road: QL279 from VietnamCoracle

Random other stuff

• The Case For Bettering One’s Cultural Competence from The Global Jigsaw

• Millions Of Workers Are Training AI Models For Pennies from Wired

• High Steaks Society: Who Are The 12% Of People Consuming Half Of All Beef In The US? from The Guardian

• The Future Of Travel Writing: How Can You Future-Proof Your Career? from Talking Travel Writing ($)

Carbon-friendly flying in Sen Monorom

I never got to fly in or out of Sen Monorom as the loons running Cambodia closed it to flights supposedly because you could see too much illegal logging during the flight. So I heard anyway…in a bar. Still, back then it was way better than the road to Banlung! Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Penang

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

You know when you’re going somewhere you haven’t been before and you open the interwebs search for “hotels in …” and you get eleventy billion results? No? Please tell me your secrets!

So where are we off to for the fifth edition? Crazy expensive Singapore. There is nowhere in Southeast Asia as hard on the wallet as Singapore, and nothing is madder than the hotel and hostel costs—they are bonkers. For each pick, I’ve looked up some prices on our partner Agoda, and listed them along with—as always—the direct contact details for each place. That way you can compare and figure out what works for you. Just a disclaimer here, Agoda is a Travelfish partner, so if you book a room through them a commission may be payable to us.

Cheers

Stuart

Three cool spots to stay in Singapore this November

For pod-seekers: Wink @ Mosque Street

I don’t know how many times I’ve stayed at Wink over the years—a lot. I used to flit back and forward between Wink and Adler Hostel on South Bridge Road, but the latter changed hands and rebranded over the pandemic, and next time I’m in town I’ll be back at Wink.

Why? The location is excellent. It is close enough to Chinatown’s eating options without being right in the centre of the madhouse. It is well run—on every single stay I’ve had here I’ve found the staff to be great. The pods, well, to a point a pod is a pod is a pod, but these are better than your average pod. It also has a bit a social space—something that is getting rarer as Singaporean hostel-owners work to cram ever more bunks in. This is a popular hostel, and they now have three properties, but the original on Mosque Street is my pick.

On Agoda there are pods on 22-23 November 2023 for S$47 all in, making this good value-for a mid-priced pod in Singapore. Want to compare these to their direct rates? You can contact Wink via the details below.

Wink: 8A Mosque Street, Singapore. T: 9835 6850. https://www.wink.sg/

Check rates at Wink

Little India with a pool: The Daulat

Little India isn’t the backpacker quarter it once was, but if you’re wanting something a bit spendier and want to stay in this part of town, The Daulat, while a bit hidden away, is worth seeking out.

First the pool. Yes, there is a swimming pool. No, it is not a big swimming pool. It is in fact, the most lap pool lap pool I’ve ever seen. Think a perfect lap pool for one person—or two very close friends. All this is to say manage your expectations!

The rooms however are a good deal. They’re well designed and imaginatively furnished, with little touches that make them that bit more homely than most other hotels in this price bracket in Singapore. They’re also of an almost sensible size, which is really saying something for Singapore.

So who is this going to appeal to? Couples primarily. Oh, and anyone who wants to spend most of their time stuffing face in Little India. The Grand Madras is not far from here and has the same owners, but I think The Daulat is the better of the two.

If you’re looking for a stay here in high season, you will need to book well in advance. On Agoda I did find a superior room on 19-20 November 2023 for S$186 all in, but I think the extra $20 for a deluxe would be money well spent.

The Daulat: 16 Madras Street, Singapore. T: 6802 1069. https://hotelcalmo.co/the-daulat/

Book The Daulat

Grown-up backpackers: South East Asia Hotel

I’m going to start here by saying the South East Asia Hotel will not be for everyone. That said, I think it is a great value spot. This is an old school hotel—built back in the day when the size of hotel rooms wasn’t modelled on AirAsia seat size. Ok, they also look like they’d qualify as sets in a Stephen King movie, but that is kind of charming I guess.

Everything else about the place—particularly the bathroom—is old. The TV old. The air-con old. The curtains old. The carpet OMG old. But there is this quirky old world charm to it, that makes it one well worth considering—if you like old things. At this price point, a room costs marginally more than two pods at a hostel, so if you’re backpacking and can’t face another dorm, this is worth considering.

Very friendly and accommodating staff, and the location, on Waterloo Street, is central to Bugis and within easy walking distance of plenty to see and do. Would I stay here again? Yes.

On Agoda I found a standard on 19-20 November 2023 for S$120 all in, and they also have family rooms for around S$200, which (for Singapore) is very good value.

South East Asia Hotel: 190 Waterloo Street, Singapore. T: 6338 2394. http://www.seahotel.com.sg/

Check rates at the South East Asia Hotel

Past editions

If this sort of email is not your thing, please note, you can unsubscribe from this without unsubscribing from the main Travelfish newsletter. They are separate newsletters under the same umbrella, so it isn’t an either/or affair. You can manage what you receive from me here.

As always, suggestions are both welcome and appreciated. Many thanks to those who have sent me their favourites—they’ve been filed away.

Until next Wednesday then.

Safe and fun travels

Stuart

This week I’m leading with a piece on fisheries—and it’s a cracker. It also reminds me of an AP series a few years ago which covered slavery in the industry and it’s sad to see how little anything has changed.

Over on Couchfish, I had final paid piece looking at the time I’ve spent in Java and then a free to read piece on Bali. Meanwhile, last week’s Wednesday Deals looked at three choice places to stay in Penang.

Lastly, I’m a guest in a few weeks time on a Travel Massive live webinar asking the question How Does Slow Travel Impact Local Communities? Registration is free!

After a lovely seven hour transit stretch through the middle of the night in Manila, I’m back in Bali for a spell. As I may have mentioned, my time in Cebu was characterised by much whining about the heat, and yet, now back in Bali, it is just as hot. We’ve been here a good long spell and I don’t recall ever experiencing heat like this—and so there’s this weeks’s theme.

Cheers

Stuart

The sun’s anvil

One of my many Bali beach photos that are impossible to take today due to resort etcetera construction. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• The Crimes Behind The Seafood You Eat from The New Yorker ($)

📚 What I’m reading

• Doppelganger by Naomi Klein

🇲🇲 Burma

• ‘Hard To Breathe’: Myanmar Communities Forced To Live Among World’s Trash from Frontier Myanmar ($)

Looking to book your transport online when you’re on the road in Southeast Asia? For Vietnam, look no further than Baolau. For the rest of the region, 12Go should be your first port of call.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Communities Track A Path Of Destruction Through A Cambodian Wildlife Sanctuary from Mongabay

• Should Readers Trust “Inaccuracy” In Memoirs About Genocide? from JSTOR Daily

• Booming Investor Interest In Agritech Is Inspiring A Wave Of Cambodian Entrepreneurs. But Can The Solutions Scale? from Eco-Business

• Three Days Away: Battambang Pt.2 from Around The World In 80 Scrapes ($)

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Forget Your Carbon Footprint. Let’s Talk About Your Climate Shadow. from Mic

• Is This The End Of The Mediterranean Beach Holiday? from BBC

• Why Summers May Never Be The Same from The New York Times ($)

• Licence To Pollute — Carbon Offsets Are A Disaster In The Making For Africa from Daily Maverick

• Plastic Policies Across Southeast Asia Attempt To Stem The Tide: How To Adapt Your Business And Act On Plastic Today from The Third Pole

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Indonesia’s Most Dangerous Job: Mining In An Active Volcano from Catalyst Planet

• Report: Half Of Plantations In Indonesia’s Palm Oil Heartland Are Illegal from Mongabay

• Bali: One Morning In Time from NW Where

🇱🇦 Laos

• Lao Residents Continue Crossing To Thailand Amidst High Inflation from The Laotian Times

• China’s Promise Of Prosperity Brought Laos Debt — And Distress from The Washington Post, Archive.org

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Is Malaysia Becoming A Mass Tourism Destination? from Reef Check Malaysia (LinkedIn)

• Above A Drowned World, Existence Is Resistance from This Is Southeast Asia

🇸🇬 Singapore

• How Singapore’s Jurong Lake District Reimagines Business Districts For A Climate-Conscious Era from GovInsider

• The Big Read In Short: What Drives Singaporeans’ Car-Owning Dreams Amid Soaring COE Prices? from Today

• ‘Blueprint For Disaster’ Singapore’s Carbon Hub Threatens Global Climate Targets from SourceMaterial

• Tempeh: Part I from Singapore Noodles

🇹🇭 Thailand

• An Extraordinary Mountain Farm In Trang from Thai Island Times ($)

• Inside The Northern Thailand Town Reviving Indigo Textile Production For A New Generation from National Geographic

• Tightening Gun Control In Thailand Requires Dealing With Entrenched Interests from The Straits Times

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Rediscovering The Nanyue Kingdom: An Ancient Beacon Of Cantonese And Vietnamese Unity from Southeast Asia Society

• Hẻm Gems: A Trip To Bàn Cờ For Lạng Sơn’s Sweet And Sour Dry Phở from Saigoneer

Random other stuff

• Capping Visitor Numbers To Protect Cultural Sites From Overtourism from El País

• The Wild Business Of Desert Island Tourism from The Hustle

• New Culinary Conversations In South East Asia from Asia Media Centre

• The Cruel Fantasies Of Well-Fed People from George Monbiot

• Youth Hostels Face Tough Times – But They Are Perfect For Authentic, Spontaneous Experiences from The Conversation

• Have These Changes Altered The Way You Travel? Because They Should from Traveller

• #182 – Travel In The Age Of Artificial Intelligence from Talk Travel Asia (Podcast)

• The Future Of Travel Writing: What The Editors Say from Talking Travel Writing ($)

Perfect weather for hotel research

Shlepping it from hotel to hotel in Siem Reap Cambodia. I still remember this day. It was … rather warm. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

More Wednesday Deals still:

Huế

Phnom Penh

Bangkok

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

You know when you’re going somewhere you haven’t been before and you open the interwebs search for “hotels in …” and you get eleventy billion results? No? Please tell me your secrets!

So where are we off to for the fourth edition? How about my favourite place in Malaysia to stuff face—Penang? For each, I’ve looked up some prices on our partner Agoda, and listed them along with—as always—the direct contact details for each place. That way you can compare and figure out what works for you. Just a disclaimer here, Agoda is a Travelfish partner, so if you book a room through them a commission may be payable to us.

Cheers

Stuart

Three cool spots to stay in Penang this November

For charm-seekers: Noordin Mews

Penang’s Georgetown, particularly its centre, is crammed with quality hotels—so much so it is a challenge to have a shortlist that is, well, short. Yet, when I went to draw up this shortest of short-lists, my mind went straight to Noordin Mews.

It’s that little bit farther-flung from the centre than most and while it has a heritage angle—it was once a trishaw garage and servant quarters—the property instead draws its inspirations from 1950s Asian cinema and fashion. Writes Sally Arnold for Travelfish:

“Built by the team behind the Galle Fort Hotel in Sri Lanka, you can expect a little luxury. Mews rooms are of a very generous size with cool terrazzo floors and lime-washed walls. Decor is tropical deco meets Chinese retro Pop: you’ll find curved-armed lounge chairs, round-mirrored teak dressing tables complete with glam 50s film-star-type framed photos along with a glass shadowbox collection of retro Chinese cosmetics with a pair of cats-eye grasses thrown in for good measure as well as other 50s cultural treasures—museum-like, but restrained.”

There is also—important point here—a swimming pool, which is quite the rarity at this price-point in Georgetown. It isn’t by any means Olympic-sized, but it is wet and cool, both welcome aspects after a day in the heat wandering Georgetown.

On Agoda there’s a standard room for 15-17 November 2023 for 564 Ringgit per night all in, making this definitely at the splurge end of at least my travel budget, but sometimes a splurge is well worth it. Want to compare these to their direct rates? You can contact Noordin Mews via the details below.

Noordin Mews: 53 Noordin Street, Penang. T: 4263 7125. https://www.noordinmews.com/

Check rates at Noordin Mews

A swanky splash out: Campbell House

You’re either going to love—or not love—the award-winning Campbell House. Me? I’m in the former category—I just wish I could afford to stay here a bit more often. Rooms are sumptuous and—refreshingly for Georgetown—of a decent size. The theme is what I’d describe as “Classic China in Southeast Asia lux,” and if an oversupply of Chinese-themed trimmings is not your cup of tea, then the more modernist Noordin Mews might be a better option. If however, this sounds right up your alley, then Campbell House belongs on your shortlist. As Sally Arnold writes for Travelfish:

“If you’re looking for a swanky splash-out in Penang, Campbell House exudes elegance and refinement and makes a fine pick.”

The hotel’s location is excellent, the staff ever helpful, and the rooms, well, as I’ve already said, they’re not half bad. Campbell House has been around for quite a few years, and its ongoing popularity is testament to how much they’re continuing to get right. If you’re looking for a stay here in high season, you will need to book well in advance. On Agoda I did find a double room on 23-24 November 2023 for 469 Ringgit all in, which is, for the standard, good value.

Campbell House: 106 Lebuh Campbell, Penang. T: 4261 8290. https://campbellhousepenang.com/.

Book Campbell House

Budget beds: The Frame Guesthouse

Georgetown has a tonne of guesthouses and hostels—really a tonne, perhaps two—and while you’d think all the competition would keep standards up, in practice, the budget end of the travelling stick in Penang can be very hit and miss. That said, The Frame Guesthouse, set in the heart of Georgetown, continues to present excellent value—as long as you don’t mind a bit of bare concrete—you did see the picture above right? Writes Sally Arnold for Travelfish:

“It could be easily mistaken as the frame shop it was previously, with a collection of picture frames and signboards leaning against the spartan reception area, but this heritage shophouse turned guesthouse is worth checking out. The renovation to the triple-storey building has preserved the existing concrete floors, and walls and other surfaces have been given minimal treatment to retain the authentic patina of history with the resulting industrial-style finish, a smart and contemporary, if somewhat austere look.”

More importantly perhaps—at least for solo travellers:

“What really gives The Frame Guesthouse the edge, is the terrific light-filled common areas, conducive for meeting other travellers.”

On Agoda I found a dorm on 22-23 November 2023 for 50 Ringgit all in, while doubles (with bathroom) start at 148 Ringgit. These prices doesn’t make this the cheapest dorm in town—but it is a solid bet for those on a budget.

The Frame Guesthouse: 168 Chulia Street, Penang. T: 4263 8807. https://www.theframeguesthouse.com/

Book The Frame Guesthouse

Past editions

If this sort of email is not your thing, please note, you can unsubscribe from this without unsubscribing from the main Travelfish newsletter. They are separate newsletters under the same umbrella, so it isn’t an either/or affair. You can manage what you receive from me here.

As always, suggestions are both welcome and appreciated. Many thanks to those who have sent me their favourites—they’ve been filed away.

So, that’s the wrap this week. I hope you found the above of interest, and if you did, please feel free to send it to whoever you’d like.

Until next Wednesday then.

Safe and fun travels

Stuart

This week I’m leading with a piece on AI. Just when I thought I never needed or wanted to read another story on it, I did—and I’m glad I did so.

I’m still in the Philippines—but leave Malapascua tomorrow for the ride back to Cebu City, then home on Monday. I’ll miss this little postcard-sized island and the people that live here. As a guy in a beach bar said to me tonight when I commented on just how friendly I’ve found Filipinos to be:

“We Filipinos have an American brain, Chinese hands, and a Spanish heart.”

I’m not quite sure what he meant with the hands and brain bit, but he was spot on with the heart.

Over on Couchfish, I had two paid pieces on Java’s Mount Ijen—one focusing on my own idiocy, and another on an all together more serious aspect of the peak. This coming week, Couchfish finally steps onto Bali’s shores. Meanwhile, last week’s Wednesday Deals looked at three choice places to stay in Huế.

Elsewhere, I contributed to a piece alongside Tim Hannigan on the Future Of Travel Writing for Talking Travel Writing, which many appear to have enjoyed. Lastly, I’m a guest in a few weeks time on a Travel Massive live webinar asking the question How Does Slow Travel Impact Local Communities? Registration is free!

OK, enough about me, well, almost—this week’s theme is sharkies, because over the last few days I’ve seen a bunch of them including Malapascua’s calling card—Thresher Sharks. These creatures are a thing of pure gracefulness and beauty, and when they leap out of the ocean right in front of you, take my word for it, your jaw will drop. They’re so elegant in fact I almost wished I had an underwater camera—as I don’t, you’ll have to settle for some above-the-surface pics. Sorry.

Cheers

Stuart

Thresher Sharks are early risers

Which makes for a 5am departure—something that would be bearable if it wasn’t for the dire state of coffee here. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• How Will A.I. Learn Next? from The New Yorker ($)

📚 What I’m reading

• Doppelganger by Naomi Klein

🇲🇲 Burma

• Gold Mining Devastating Forest Reserve In Myanmar’s South from Mekong Eye

• The Myanmar Barmaid Who Nabbed A North Korean Assassin from Frontier Myanmar ($)

• UN Probe Finds Myanmar Army Using Forced Labour from Frontier Myanmar ($)

Looking to book your transport online when you’re on the road in Southeast Asia? For Vietnam, look no further than Baolau. For the rest of the region, 12Go should be your first port of call.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Three Days Away: Battambang Pt.1 from Around The World In 80 Scrapes ($)

• Ros Serey Sothea: The Golden-Voiced Cambodian Surf Rocker Slain By The Khmer Rouge from Far Out

• Cambodia Bars Green Activists From Traveling To Accept International Award from Mongabay

• Holiday In Cambodia from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• Net-Zero: It’s Not Just Where You End Up, But How You Get There That Matters from Sustainability By The Numbers

• Our Love For Travel Burns Deeply. Oil Giants Search For ‘Green’ Aviation Solution from The Sydney Morning Herald ($)

• Offset Market Hit By Fresh Allegations Of False CO2 Claims from Bloomberg

• UK Airlines Decried For Offering “Irresponsible” Frequent Flyer Incentives from GreenBiz

• From Mallorca To Bhutan: Making Tourism Sustainable from DW

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Australia Will Pay $27M Compensation To Indonesians Held In Adult Jails When They Were Children from The Guardian

• Documenting Bali Tourism And Hospitality Culture from Paras

• The Plastipelago from New Mandala

• Millions Of Sellers Stranded As Tiktok Shop Shutters In Indonesia from Rest Of World

🇱🇦 Laos

• “I Feel Hopeless”: Living In Laos On The Brink from BBC

• Notes On Muang Xai: A Stop On The Laos-China Railway from Nomadic Notes

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• “Haze Cannot Be The Norm”: Malaysia Urges Indonesia To Take Action from Reuters

• UNESCO Convention To Decide Nomination For Niah National Park To Be World Heritage Site from The Borneo Post

🇸🇬 Singapore

• Deciphering Singapore’s Emphatic But Enigmatic Presidential Election Result from Academia SG

• Soak Up The Sun At These Picnic Spots In Singapore from SilverKris

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Two Dead And 14-Year-Old Held Over Siam Paragon Mall Shooting from BBC

• Greenpeace Thailand Protests Greenwashing In Climate Policy from Prachatai

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Vietnam Poised To Become Large-scale Carbon Credit Market from Vietnam Investment Review

• Poorest Districts Worst Affected In Ho Chi Minh City Floods from The Third Pole

Random other stuff

• How Demographics, Loneliness, Work And Climate Will Define The Future Of Travel from Skift

• South Africa’s Missing Sharks Have Been Found from Hakai

• When Travel Writing Isn’t Travel Writing from Jack Montgomery

• Degrowth: No, Let's Not Call It Something Else from Protecting The Future

My “No Tiger Shark Crew”

On my last dive, we crossed fingers and went looking for Tiger Sharks—no luck sadly. As you can see, the crew, including my dive guide Jay (far right), were devastated lol—an all-round top crew. If you’re looking for a dive shop on Malapascua, I found Devocean to be a solid operation. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Wednesday Deals recap

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

You know when you’re going somewhere you haven’t been before and you open the interwebs search for “hotels in …” and you get eleventy billion results? No? Please tell me your secrets!

So where are we off to for the third edition? How about my favourite city in Vietnam, Huế? I’ve got a riverside place ideal for lovers who don’t want to spend the earth, a family-run family-friendly place in the Old Town, and a bargain-priced homestay also in the old part of town.

For each, I’ve looked up some prices on our partner Agoda, and listed them along with—as always—the direct contact details for each place. That way you can compare and figure out what works for you. Just a disclaimer here, Agoda is a Travelfish partner, so if you book a room through them a commission may be payable to us.

Lastly, if this sort of email is not your thing, please note, you can unsubscribe from this without unsubscribing from the main Travelfish newsletter. They are separate newsletters under the same umbrella, so it isn’t an either/or affair. You can manage what you receive from me here.

As always, suggestions are both welcome and appreciated. Many thanks to those who have sent me their favourites—they’ve been filed away.

Cheers

Stuart

Three cool spots to stay in Huế this November

For couples: Hue River Side Villa

Huế is deservedly famous for its beautiful riverfront, yet if you’d like a river view you’re generally restricted to uber fancy pants properties such as Azerai La Residence. That joint may well be fit for royalty—on one inspection a staffer told me I was in the favourite room of the now Thai King, which I have to say creeped me out more than enticed me—but you need not pay the earth for a river view in Huế. Easily my favourite joint in the whole city is Hue River Side Villa.

There’s not a lot of rooms, and rather than in a concrete block-house they’re chalet-style looking over a small garden with the water beyond. Rooms are well designed and furnished, with comfy beds and plenty enough space. I’ve also found the staff to be excellent on the occasion when I was actually able to get a room. Yes, with limited rooms and excellent prices, this is one you want to book in advance—go for an extra night if you can, to soak it up. There’s a good coffee house right by the river almost next door and the Old City is a comfortable walk away.

On Agoda there’s a double room on 1-2 November 2023 for US$41 all in, which is great value, but, like I said, rooms go fast. Want to compare these to their direct rates? You can contact Hue River Side Villa via the details below—I’m found them to be very responsive when I emailed them begging them to fit me in on my last visit to Huế … sadly they couldn’t.

Hue River Ride Villa: 16/7 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Huế. T: (234) 381 8018. https://www.hueriversidevilla.com/

Book Hue River Side Villa today

Food hounds and families: Maison Vu Tri Vien

My number one rule when it comes to Huế is, with the exception of Hue River Side Villa, always always always stay in the old city. It has better food and less tourist nonsense, and a growing selection of small family-run properties. Maison Vu Tri Vien is one such place.

It might not look like much chop from the street front, but inside there’s a warm family atmosphere, and more than comfortable rooms for the money. We found the French and English speaking host to be particularly helpful, and when he said his place is popular with families it was easy to see why. His family live on site, so this is a true homestay, and we found it to be a relaxing hideaway in the Old City.

When we say hideaway, we mean it. Maison Vu Tri Vien is down a narrow rutted laneway which is not all that well lit at night, but a main thoroughfare with plenty of street food and endless coffee is a mere block away. Even if you’re not travelling with the family, this is a good option if you want Old City, but don’t want a hostel style place.

This place is especially popular with Europeans, and availability on a quick search for November was limited to say the least. On Agoda I did find a double room on 25-26 November 2023 for US$25 all in, which is great value for the location.

Maison Vu Tri Vien: 110 Nhật Lệ, Huế. T: (984) 699 433. No official website.

Book Maison Vu Tri Vien

Budget beds in the Old Town: Le Robinet Homestay

At risk of repeating myself, Huế’s Old Town is where you want to stay, and down in the southwest corner within the city walls are a clutch of homestay/hostel style places of which I reckon Le Robinet Homestay is the best.

The best why? The rooms, while perhaps a little Spartan, are spotless—and I mean spotless. There’s plenty of open area to relax within the grounds. There’s excellent coffee shops literally around the corner. Staff are friendly and very accommodating. I mean, I really had no complaints whatsoever when I stayed here—especially at this price.

This corner of the Old Town is a bit quieter, there isn’t quite so much traffic noise, yet there’s enough racket to let you know you are still in the heart of a Vietnamese city. The eating in this area is solid—perhaps not quite as varied as around Maison Vu Tri Vien but you won’t starve—there’s also some great local ice cream by here.

On Agoda I found a room on 15-16 November 2023 for just US$16 all in, which is terrific value—contact them direct to see what else is on offer.

Le Robinet Homestay: 47B Trần Nguyên Hãn, Thành Huế. T: (93) 194 5757. https://www.facebook.com/LeRobinetHomestay

Check rates at Le Robinet Homestay

Past editions

So, that’s the wrap this week. I hope you found the above of interest, and if you did, please feel free to send it to whoever you’d like.

One request, if you’ve a favourite hotel somewhere in Southeast Asia, please feel free to send it to me, and I may well include it in a future edition.

Until next Wednesday then.

Safe and fun travels

Stuart

This week I’m leading with a piece on some islands a bit far from Southeast Asia—the Galápagos. Give it a read and see if it brings a few Southeast Asian destinations to mind.

I’m still in the Philippines—soaking up some diving time on the island of Malapascua off the northern tip of Cebu … along with the best hits of George Michael, Deep Purple, Roy Orbison, Take That (seriously!) and Madonna. The music scene here is memorable to say the least.

Over on Couchfish, there was a solitary piece for paid subscribers on the “butterfly effect” from a severed ear in the Caribbean reaching East Java. Meanwhile, last week’s Wednesday Deals looked at three choice places to stay in Phnom Penh.

This week’s theme is sardines, because a few days ago I dove with about eight bazillion of them at Moalboal, and it was one of the most incredible experiences of my life—there were so many they blocked out the sun and day turned to night. No pics of that sadly—you’ll have to settle with some other fishies—which I’m now sort of regretting eating.

Cheers

Stuart

That is not a sardine

Prepping for dinner on Indonesia’s Togean Islands. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• The Myth Of The Galápagos Cannot Be Sustained from The Atlantic

📚 What I’m reading

• Empire of Pain: The Secret History of the Sackler Dynasty by Patrick Radden Keefe

🇲🇲 Burma

• The Unfolding Humanitarian Crisis In Myanmar from The Diplomat

• ‘There Is No Hope’: Death And Desperation Take Over The World’s Largest Refugee Camp from TIME

Looking to book your transport online when you’re on the road in Southeast Asia? For Vietnam, look no further than Baolau. For the rest of the region, 12Go should be your first port of call.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Five Heads, 10,000 Pieces: Restoring The Dancing Shiva from Southeast Asia Globe

• Chinese Tourists Have Good Reasons Not To Return To Southeast Asia from The Diplomat

• Mother Nature Cambodia’s ‘Relentless’ Activism Earns Right Livelihood Award from Monga Bay

• Years-Long Mediation Leaves Bunong Farmers Indebted To Multinational Rubber Firm from Camboja News

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• How Much Biofuel Would We Need To Decarbonise Aviation? from Sustainability By The Numbers

• ‘We Are Just Getting Started’: The Plastic-Eating Bacteria That Could Change The World from The Guardian

• One Man’s Quest To Heal The Oceans—And Maybe Save The World from TIME

• Climate Change And The Shift To Cleaner Energy Push Southeast Asia To Finally Start Sharing Power from AP

• The Death Of Carbon Neutrality? from The Financial Times ($)

• Growing Food Insecurity Among Southeast Asians – And Concern That Climate Change Will Make It Worse from Fulcrum

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Indonesia Plans Bali Light Rail To Ease Congestion From Airport from CNA

• Bandung Travelogue from The Global Jigsaw

🇱🇦 Laos

• Elephant Conservation Ongoing Priority For WWF-Laos Following Devastating Deaths from The Laotian Times

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Tourism Goes Green Investing In Sustainable Tourism And Integrated Island Waste Management In Malaysia from UNDP

• The Trade In Sanctioned Oil Is Booming As The US Turns A Blind Eye from The Guardian

🇸🇬 Singapore

• The 24-Year-Old Student Who Accidentally Became A Taoist Priest from Rice Media

• Thunder Tea Rice from Singapore Noodles

🇹🇭 Thailand

• As Amsterdam Bows Out, What Will Be The New Capital Of Cannabis Tourism? from National Geographic

• Big Problem As Ancient Site In Thailand Suddenly Becomes Tourist Hotspot from News.com.au

• Extraordinary Spots: A Hidden Beach In The Ang Thong Islands from Thai Island Quest ($)

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Vietnam’s Answer To Angkor Wat Is A Less Grand But Newly Restored Ancient Hindu Temple Complex Near Hoi An That Was Seat Of The Champa Kingdom from SCMP ($)

• Vietnam Jails Fifth Climate Activist On Tax Charges from BBC

• The Greatest Story Ever Told (About Uzbeki Fred In Hanoi) from A Story From Connla

• Phan Thiết's Vibrant Whale Worship Festival Reflects Vietnam's Rich Animist Traditions from Saigoneer

Random other stuff

• The World’s Last Internet Cafes from Rest Of World

• The Snob’s Guide To Travel Google Docs from Town & Country

• The Definitive Guide To Doing Laundry In Your Hotel Bathroom from The Washington Post ($)

• New York Is Breaking Free Of Airbnb’s Clutches. This Is How The Rest Of The World Can Follow Suit from The Guardian

• Cultural Knowledge Cannot Be Codified – That Is Travel’s Human Edge In This Revolution from Web In Travel

• Travel Website Booking.com Leaves Hoteliers Thousands Of Dollars Out Of Pocket from The Guardian

• Welcome To Midlife, Lonely Planet from Poste Restante

These are sardines

An example of the sort of sardine school I was diving in. Photo: Chris Mitchell.

Wednesday Deals recap

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

You know when you’re going somewhere you haven’t been before and you open the interwebs search for “hotels in …” and you get eleventy billion results? No? Please tell me your secrets!

With this in mind, last week I started a new edition of the Travelfish newsletter which goes out every Wednesday. In it, I select three places, across a range of budgets, to stay in a destination somewhere in Southeast Asia. They’ll either be places I know to be great, or that look like they should be.

For each, I’ll look up some prices on our partner Agoda, list them along with—as always—the direct contact details for each place. That way you can compare and figure out what works for you. Just a disclaimer here, Agoda is a Travelfish partner, so if you book a room through them a commission may be payable to us.

Ok, so where better for the second edition than the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh? I’ve got something for lovers wanting that “colonial thang”, a modern hotel ideal for those with young kids and a bit of budget, and a bargain-priced eco hotel.

Lastly, if this sort of email is not your thing, please note, you can unsubscribe from this without unsubscribing from the main Travelfish newsletter. They are separate newsletters under the same umbrella, so it isn’t an either/or affair. You can manage what you receive from me here.

As always, suggestions are both welcome and appreciated. Many thanks to those who sent me their favourites after the first issue—they’ve been filed away. Also a big thank you to the reader who suggested another version of this highlighting “the worst hotels ever,” but I’ll pass on that one for now!

Cheers

Stuart

Three cool spots to stay in Phnom Penh this November

For couples: Pavilion

It might seem counter-intuitive to suggest an older property as a favourite when you’re writing about Southeast Asia’s fastest changing capital city, and yet here I am, doing just that. The thing is, while it is true Phnom Penh’s Pavilion has been around the block more than a couple of times, it does hold up well as one of those special hotels that is executed so well that it remains an easy one to return to time and time again.

While photos of the property might suggest it is a single building, it’s actually a gaggle of four. The much photographed reception begun life as a villa built by former king Norodom Sihanouk’s mother, Queen Kossamak, in the 1920s. Its architecture blends Khmer and French colonial styles, an appearance growing increasingly rare in a city determined to reimagine itself into a ghastly concoction of glass and brass.

If throwing yourself into the arms of colonial chic doesn’t appeal, then this probably isn’t the right hotel for you, but if you want romance, quiet nooks and crannies, a back corner pool few seem to know about, and long slow late breakfasts—in bed perhaps—the Pavilion belongs on your short list.

On Agoda there’s a double room on 22-23 November 2023 for US$88 all in, which is good value, but if you shift your dates around a bit you can sometimes find availability around the $60 mark which is terrific value. Want to compare these to their direct rates? You can contact Pavilion via the details below.

Pavilion: 227 Street 19, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 222 280. https://www.thepavilion.asia/

Book a room at Pavilion

Flashpackers and families: Penh House

If the Pavilion’s colonial hangover doesn’t do it for you, and you’d prefer somewhere more modern, then Penh House, over on Street 240 is another of my personal favourite hotels in the city. The rooms are over-sized with plenty enough room for cat-swinging—or an extra bed—and they’re also well decorated and comfortable, but the two things that really swing it for Penh House are both outside the rooms.

Firstly, I’ve found the staff here to bend over backwards helpful and friendly—really, I couldn’t ask more of them. I’m sure you can find obsequious staff—if that’s your thing—at high end joints across the city, but the humanity here I’m a big fan of. Secondly, the roof top pool is really something else. How many places can you cool off in the afternoon heat—or as a wild thunderstorm hammers the city—all the while gazing into a royal enclosure? Roof top pools in Phnom Penh are far more common nowadays than they once were, but this one remains a personal favourite. Should you drag yourself outdoors, the hotel is right on Street 240, with its snazzy cafes, bars and restaurants, plus key sights are but a short walk away.

On Agoda there’s very limited availability, but I found a double room on 17-18 November 2023 for US$93 all in, which is perhaps a bit high for the standard—shift those dates around to see what pops up—or contact them direct to see what they can rustle up.

Penh House: 34A Street 240, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 212 200. https://www.penhhouse.asia/

Book Penh House today

Putting the planet first: House Boutique Eco Hotel

You’ll find plenty of joints in Phnom Penh who make a big deal about bamboo straws and offering free water refilling, but if you’re after something more than a bit of tokenism, House Boutique Eco Hotel might make for a good starting point. They do the standard stuff, but go more than an extra mile with considerable renewable energy use, up-cycling—all the wood you see on site is recycled,—intelligent waste policies, local products, well-treated staff and more. Best of all, they show a property can do all this without charging the earth.

The location, well away from the centre of town, might at first seem like an inconvenience, but there’s a traditional—and delicious—food market within easy walking distance, one which I once spent an entire evening exploring on foot with a street food guide. If you want a central location and tourist boutiques, this isn’t the best option, but if you want local, and want to support a business doing things right, House Boutique Eco Hotel is worth more than a quick glance.

On Agoda I found an eco room on 21-22 November 2023 for just US$36 all in, which is terrific value—contact them direct to see what else is on offer.

House Boutique Eco Hotel: 76 Street 57, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 220 884. https://houseboutiquehotel.com/

Book House Boutique Eco Hotel today

Past editions

So, that’s the wrap this week. I hope you found the above of interest, and if you did, please feel free to send it to whoever you’d like.

One request, if you’ve a favourite hotel somewhere in Southeast Asia, please feel free to send it to me, and I may well include it in a future edition.

Until next Wednesday then.

Safe and fun travels

Stuart

I’m not one to go on much about companies that I admire, but Patagonia is one such firm and I lead this week with a piece by them on what they’re trying to do.

For the first time in, checks watch, 13 years, I’m currently in a new country—the Philippines! Yes, finally. No, I’m not here to look at adding the country to Travelfish, instead, I’m here at the invitation of a fine company who I contract with. Their get-together though was for only four days, and I thought “Hell no,” so after some ticket adjustment, I’m here for three weeks cruising around Cebu by motorbike. My daughter is with me for the first week, then I have the rest to poke around myself.

Initial impressions: Cebu is beautiful, the food swings between delicious and ahhh not so delicious, and the people are some of the friendliest and most obliging people I’ve come across. They also like to sing, sing a lot, sing loudly, and on occasion, sing somewhat out of tune. At a mountain-top farm-stay the other day, 7am Roy Orbison renditions at eleventy million decibels were really a bit much.

Anyways, we’re down the southwest corner at the moment in Moalboal while my daughter gets her Open Water diving certificate, then some vrooming up the east coast, first to drop off Lyla at Cebu City, then to Malapascua off the northern tip—yes, I’ll be getting my money’s worth out of that motorbike.

Anyways, more on the trip soon.

Over on Couchfish, there were two paid pieces on Probolinggo, one on a bad day in a coffee field, and the other on a haunted house. On the free read side of things, I had some thoughts on a different approach destinations could take. I also launched a new Wednesday edition of the Travelfish newsletter looking at a few special spots to stay each week. If you missed it, you can read it here.

Cheers

Stuart

PS: If you’re a travel writer, Talking Travel Writing are running a survey at the moment and would appreciate your input.

Love Lechon

First meal off the plane in Cebu City. No complaints. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

⭐️ Story of the week 

• What Patagonia’s CEO Has Learned A Year Into The Company’s ‘Radical Experiment’ from TIME

📚 What I’m reading

• Empire of Pain: The Secret History of the Sackler Dynasty by Patrick Radden Keefe

🇲🇲 Burma

• The Myanmar Junta’s Census Heralds A Totalitarian Nightmare from Frontier Myanmar ($)

Looking to book your transport online when you’re on the road in Southeast Asia? For Vietnam, look no further than Baolau. For the rest of the region, 12Go should be your first port of call.

🇰🇭 Cambodia

• Cambodia’s Thin-Skinned Princelings Are Forcing Newspapers Out Of The Country. It Isn’t All Bad. from The Diplomat

• Traffic Fatalities Decline But Remain A Concern from The Phnom Penh Post

Did someone order a beach view?

Ad: Salad Hut on Ko Pha Ngan’s beautiful west coast, from US$118 per night. Click here for the details.

🌴 Environment

• If Companies Had To Pay For Their Carbon Emissions, Nearly Half Their Profits Would Evaporate, Study Finds from Fortune

• Revealed: Top Carbon Offset Projects May Not Cut Planet-Heating Emissions from The Guardian

• Extreme Weather Is Forcing Redesign Of World’s Busiest Airports from The Japan Times

🇮🇩 Indonesia

• Meet The Indonesian Volunteers Fighting To Save Their Coral Reefs from Blue Dot Diving

• ‘Do You Know How Many Followers I Have?’ Dodging Influencers In Bali from Traveller ($) [Ed: This is what happens when a newspaper is too cheap to pay for pics—the peak in the last photo is Abang, not Batur, plus the swing photo is taken nowhere near where the writer is talking about. Sigh.]

• Why The Next Decade Will Be So Critical For Indonesia: It’s Not Simply About Getting Rich from Fulcrum

• Rhino Numbers Rebound As Global Figures Reveal A Win For Conservation from The Guardian

🇱🇦 Laos

• Fuel Company: Laos Could Face Renewed Fuel Shortages from The Laotian Times

• An Automobile Guidebook For Tourists In Indochina From 1930 from Southeast Asia Library Group

• Taking The Homegrown Way To Self-Reliance In Food from Reporting Asean

Planning a holiday in Southeast Asia and need a sim card? Why not pick one up upon arrival?

Indonesia
Telkomsel 4G Sim Card with 35 Gig of data for 250,000 rupiah

Malaysia
Digi 4G Sim Card with 30 Gig of data for 35 ringgit

Singapore

Starhub 4G Sim Card with 100 Gig of data for S$9.70

Thailand
DTAC Happy Tourist 4G/5G Sim Card with 15 Gig of data for 150 baht

Vietnam
Vinaphone 30 days unlimited data for 265,000 dong

🇲🇾 Malaysia

• Kampung Spirit: A Journey Through Malaysia’s Traditional Village Life from BBC (Ad)

🇸🇬 Singapore

• How To Cool Down A City from The New York Times ($)

• Meet Singapore’s Next Generation Of Traditional Craft Makers from Silver Kris

• The Weight Of The Departed: Finding Meaning In Transporting Dead Bodies from Rice Media

• Chicken Rice: Part I from Singapore Noodles

🇹🇭 Thailand

• Inside The Northern Thailand Town Reviving Indigo Textile Production For A New Generation from National Geographic

• Thailand’s Ancient Town Of Si Thep Added To World Heritage List from RFI

• Controversy Highlights Room Rate Issue from Bangkok Post

• 57-Year-Old Man Arrested For 10-Year-Old FB Posts from Prachatai

Looking for somewhere special in Penang?

Ad: Campbell House in Georgetown, Penang from US$72 per night. Click here for the details.

🇻🇳 Vietnam

• Tien Hai Nature Reserve Latest Battleground In Vietnam’s Push For Development from Mongabay

• Yes, The River Knows. from Around The World In 80 Scrapes

• In The Mekong Delta, Ferries Are Childhood Friends And Daily Companions from Saigoneer

• Seafood Treats In Phan Thiet from Vietnam Coracle

Random other stuff

• Are We Finally Turning The Tide Towards Sustainable Tourism? from World Economic Forum (Ed: Hell no!)

• Whatever Happened To The Off-Season? from The New York Times ($)

• Tourism Shaped By “Unseen” Communities Surfaces Unheard Stories, Infuses Capital Into Destinations from Sustainable Brands

• I’ve Loved Living As A Faux Local In Airbnbs, But They’re Destroying Cities from The Age

• In Nepal, Homestays Offer Tourists Food, Culture, History While Empowering Locals And Women from SCMP

• The Island Seen And Felt from Places

• We’re Finally Figuring Out If Foreign Aid Is Any Better Than Handing Out Cash from Vox

• How The Ocean Shaped A Surf Town from National Geographic (Ad)

Oh Pretty Woman

To fully appreciate this photo you need to look at it with Orbison’s Pretty Woman blasting at full tilt. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

See you next week!

So that’s the wrap. I hope you are all in good health, and thanks for reading.

Cheers!

Stuart

You know when you’re going somewhere you haven’t been before and you open the interwebs search for “hotels in …” and you get eleventy billion results? No? Please tell me your secrets!

With this in mind, I’ve started a new edition of the Travelfish newsletter which will be sent every Wednesday. In it, I’ll select three places, across a range of budgets, to stay in a destination somewhere in Southeast Asia. They’ll either be places I know to be great, or that look like they should be.

For each, I’ll look up some prices on our partner Agoda, list them along with—as always—the direct contact details for each place. That way you can compare and figure out what works for you. Just a disclaimer here, Agoda is a Travelfish partner, so if you book a room through them a commission may be payable to us.

Ok, so where better to start than the Thai capital of Bangkok? I’ve got a cool little Thai-Chinese shopfront place in Chinatown, a long-running hostel with some solid sustainability credentials, and, at the fancier end of the stick, a comfy establishment over in Bangkok’s expat quarter, Sukhumvit.

Lastly, if this sort of email is not your thing, please note, you can unsubscribe from this without unsubscribing from the main Travelfish newsletter. They are separate newsletters under the same umbrella, so it isn’t an either/or affair. You can manage what you receive from me here.

As always, suggestions are both welcome and appreciated.

Cheers

Stuart

Three cool spots to stay in Bangkok this November

A great find in Chinatown: Live Local Yaowarat

This one was a new find for me—I was actually searching for one of my Chinatown favourites when Agoda popped this one in up top, and I though “ohhh now that looks like a bit of ok”. So, here I am sticking it in up top—yes, untested, but I’m in Bangkok in December and I think I might just give it a try.

They say Chinatown in the write-up, but it’s a wee bit north, in a very local area, but only a five minute walk to Yaowarat and all Bangkok’s Chinatown has to offer. So what made it jump out? The pics obviously! It is Thai Chinese shopfront style, small and cute, with that half-accidentally half-deliberately almost Grandma-stylish look to it. There’s a small range of differing rooms on offer, and there’s a loft set-up in the family room, which appeals to me and Sam with the kids in tow—though perhaps less to them. More so, when I opened Google Maps to see exactly where it is, I cross-referenced it to my Chinatown eat list, and, well, that sealed the deal.

On Agoda there’s what they says is a family room on 16-17 November 2023 for 1,649 baht all in, which again, sounds like excellent value. Want to compare these to their direct rates? You can Live Local Yaowarat via the details below.

Live Local Yaowarat: 5 Thanon Santiphap, Pom Prap, Chinatown. T: (095) 961 7869. https://www.facebook.com/livelocal.yaowarat

Book a room at Live Local Yaowarat

Solo backpackers: The Yard Hostel

Writes David Luekens on our Travelfish review of The Yard Hostel:

“The Yard Hostel does indeed boast a spacious tree-lined lawn with places to chill, but the Thai word yard translates to relatives. This double meaning captures the essence of the place: a green mindset and actual green spaces overseen by staffers who treat guests like their long-lost cousins.

A one-of-a-kind setup starts with a little burger joint up by the road and then leads to an open-air bar where locals mingle with travellers after dark. Off to the side stands a two-storey concrete building with a few private rooms. Behind that is a string of converted shipping containers housing the dorms along with a couple more privates and a TV room with a sofa. Maps and a bunch of info on Bangkok cover one wall, with a floor-to-ceiling window along the other.”

If The Yard sounds like your sort of place—and it’s located up near Bangkok’s Victory Monument in the district of Ari, so it is more of a local scene—on Agoda then they have double rooms on 16-17 November 2023 from 1,225 baht all in, and dorm beds from 459 baht, or contact them direct via their details below.

The Yard Hostel: 51 Phahonyothin Soi 5 (also off Ari Soi 1), Bangkok. T: (089) 677 4050; (065) 328 5999 https://www.theyardbangkok.com/

Book The Yard today

Something more fancy-pants: Ariyasomvilla Hotel

Again over to David on this one, from his review on Travelfish of Ariyasomvilla Hotel

“Heritage architecture and an exquisite design combine with strong facilities and thoughtful service to make AriyasomVilla stand out in Bangkok’s upscale accommodation scene. With an intimate feel that’s similar to smaller bed and breakfasts, the hotel has enough space and extras to be called a small resort. Those who can afford to stay here will be soothed, pampered and intrigued.

The gorgeous three-storey mansion was built in 1942 by an English-Thai engineer who served as dean of engineering at Thailand’s most prestigious university while also designing the National Stadium and parts of Don Mueang Airport. In 2008, his granddaughter joined her English husband to convert the well-preserved building into the one-of-a-kind hotel that you see today.

Set alongside the San Saeb Canal at the far end of a fairly quiet side street, Ariyasom’s extensive tropical garden is most welcome after passing through concrete-covered lower Sukhumvit. With high gabled roofs, tall swing-open windows and subtly elegant trim, the building hints at what life would have been like for Thai aristocrats in the mid 20th century.”

AriyasomVilla must be doing something right, as I had to search around quite a bit to find some mid-November availability, but for November 14-15 Agoda had a studio room with breakfast going for 5,051 baht all in, which struck me as solid value. You can also contact them direct via the details below.

AriyasomVilla: 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Bangkok. T: (02) 254 8880, (02) 253 8800; https://www.ariyasom.com/

Check rates at AriyasonVilla

So, that’s the wrap this week. I hope you found the above of interest, and if you did, please feel free to send it to whoever you’d like.

One request, if you’ve a favourite hotel somewhere in Southeast Asia, please feel free to send it to me, and I may well include it in a future edition.

Until next Wednesday then.

Safe and fun travels

Stuart